Hidden amongst the high, Aleppo pine-covered limestone cliffs on the coastline between Marseilles and Cassis are tiny inlets of translucent emerald water and pocket-size beaches secreted in natural harbors known as The Calenques of Cassis. It is a Corsican word that means “inlet” but the word conjures up images of corsairs, pirates, and adventure. Take a boat, a kayak or use your own muscle power to explore these fjord-like coves.

Start by walking along the waterfront in picture postcard Cassis (12 miles east of Marseilles), a busy working harbor with fishermen sitting on rainbow-colored boats, sorting out their catch, cleaning the fish and mending their nets. Behind you pastel-painted buildings, some dating back to the 16th century, peer out over the sparkling Mediterranean whilst the sound of splashing water echoes from the myriad fountains in the town. Above you is ocher-colored Cap Canaille (Cape Rascal), one of the highest maritime bluffs in the Mediterranean (1,203 feet).

Mixed in amongst the fishing boats and fancy yachts are the traditional pointus (tourist boats) used to explore the Calenques de Cassis. There are 8 of these natural harbors. The boat trips last from 45 to 90 minutes depending on whether you are visiting 3, 5 or 8 Calenques, and they are priced accordingly. There are no reservations, you just show up and wait in line for the next boat.

As you pull out of the harbor into the blue Mediterranean heading west under the steep, white, towering limestone, it can get quite choppy. In fact, if it is at all windy, the waves will come crashing over the bow, soaking all those who sit on benches along the sides. On a hot day, it feels great. Unfortunately, as we discover when we return to Cassis, there is nowhere to wash off the salt unless you are staying at a hotel in town.

The boat veers into the fjord-like inlets where the water is absolutely smooth. Sailboats rock at anchor near the tiny sandy beach; on the rocks sunbathers, in various stages of undress, soak up the rays (this is Europe after all). Others dive from cliffs into the water below. It looks very inviting. But this area isn’t all that it appears to be. For example, about 100 feet below the surface of the Morgiou Calenque is the Cosquer Cave (closed to visitors) where the walls are daubed with some of the oldest cave paintings in the world, similar to those at Lascaux. And these massive cliffs have had an impact far beyond the shore of France. The limestone from the quarries around Cassis supplied the stone for the base of the Statue of Liberty in New York as well as building sites as far away as Alexandria, Egypt.

In addition to exploring the Calenques by boat, you can also rent a kayak and paddle your way around these secret natural coves. Alternatively, assuming that the trail has not been closed because of fire hazards, you can hike to three of the Calenques, about 6 hours round-trip. A walk along the Promenade des Lombards from Grande Mer beach to Courton Bay provides a unique view of the cliffs as well as an immense garden with ancient trees associated with the Chateau de la Maison de Baux, an old structure built in 1381, privately owned and closed to the public.

For the not so faint of heart take a drive along Route des Crètes southeast towards La Ciotat, along the clifftops where the limestone plunges dramatically into the sea below. The views along the headland are breathtaking. La Ciotat is famous as the site where the first moving picture was shot by the Lumière Brothers in 1895.

However you chose to explore Cassis and its Calenques after you have worked up an appetite, be sure to stop for a mouth-watering bouillabaisse at one of the many waterfront restaurants. Bouillabaisse — the traditional soup of Provence — is made from the fish caught that morning in the Mediterranean.

IF YOU GO
For a boat ride on the Calenques, go to Visite des Calenques 913 rue Lamartine) or the harbor. The commentary on the boat will be in French but on some boats you can request a printed explanation in English.