Legend has it that when Dante was looking for imagery to describe Purgatory in his “Divine Comedy,” he based himself in the landscape of Les Baux de Provence. Like Dante’s Purgatory (an island with seven terraces in the Atlantic), this medieval town, high on a mountain with its twisted, grotesquely shaped rocks, “rises” from the vastness of the plain below. However, unlike Purgatory, it is a sunny, enchanting Medieval fortified village that is now one of the most popular tourist destinations in France.

There is evidence to suggest that the site has been inhabited since about 6,000 BCE; however, the existing ruins date from 950 when a wandering warlord, seeking to establish his power base, took control of the impregnable rock overlooking central Provence. Eventually, the family controlled over 79 fortresses throughout Provence (known as the Terres Baussenques– the Baux lands) and as far away as Italy.  The warlord and his descendants became the most powerful feudal family in Provence, ruling brutally and successfully for five generations until 1426. The Lords of Baux claimed descent from King Balthazar, one of the Magi and took the 16-pointed Star of the Nativity as their coat of arms. They were finally defeated in the 12th century but the castle wasn’t destroyed until the 15th century by Louis XI who was afraid of it.

There is only one gate into this picturesque village. As you walk through the tiny alleys and cobblestone lanes, winding your way to the remains of the chateau high above you, simple stone houses stand on either side, many now occupied by small boutiques and touristy souvenirs. The village was built around the Eglise Saint Vincent, still jutting out of the rock where it was constructed in the 12th century. Look for the circular turret where legend has it that a fire was lit whenever an inhabitant of the village died.

Imagine groups of hooded “penitents’ wandering through the 17th century Chapelle des Penitents Blancs (The chapel of the White Penitents), redecorated in the 1970s with the frescoes of Yves Brayer, a local artist. You can see more of his works in the nearby museum that bears his name. As you reach the Castle area, climbing up steps that are worn down in the middle from thousands of feet, your eyes are drawn to two features — the panorama of the vast countryside beneath you and the reproductions of the gigantic instruments of medieval war. Catapults, siege machines, and a battering ram, as well as stocks where recalcitrants were left to ponder their misdemeanors fill the square.

The Trebuche Catapult is the biggest in Europe. It stands 60 feet high and weighs 7 tons, its huge bucket ready to be filled with 50 lbs of rocks and projectiles or burning tar balls that could be flung hundreds of feet to defeat any enemy bold enough to venture across the empty plains. Sixty soldiers were required to operate the catapult, which is built with a wheel system instead of the traditional pulleys. If you visit in the summer months, demonstrations take place several times a day.

There are only a few rooms left in the castle including an enormous dovecote, a dungeon, and chapel. But as you wander among them, using the illustrated panels to help you imagine life in Medieval times and then work your way through the Val d’Enfer (the Vale of Hell), with twisted, oddly shaped limestone rocks and spires, you can understand why Dante might have chosen this spot to represent Purgatory.

IF YOU GO
Les Baux de Provence is situated south of Avignon just past the small town of Saint Remy de Provence (made famous by Van Gogh who lived and painted there). Open daily year round, hours change as do admissions fees. Check www.lesbauxdeprovence.com. As with any popular tourist destination, you need to get here as early as possible to avoid the crowds which start arriving on tour buses at about 1000.