Ancient stone walls . . . riots of flowers cascading from window boxes . . . an old castle overlooking crystal blue waters. .  . this is Yvoire, a medieval French village on the south shore of Lake Geneva (Lac Leman). Originally an important stop on the trade route through the Alps between Italy and France, the village was sacked and burned during one of the many wars of the era, reducing it to nothing more than a sleepy fishing village with a roofless castle. Now restored, the town remains as it once was. Cobblestoned, narrow alleys wind from one side to the other behind ancient gates and wall. Crooked houses designed for short people retain their medieval quaintness. In the spring and summer flowers abound, earning it the title of one of the most beautiful villages in France. Visit in the fall or early spring and the village seems moody and brooding.

As this is very much a town that caters and survives on tourism, there are restaurants, small boutiques, and cafes. On a summer weekend there will be crowds of visitors but visit early in the morning or at another time of the year and you may find yourself walking practically deserted streets. As you approach the village from the water, the shimmering steeple of St. Pancras church rises above the town. Originally covered in tin, the onion-shaped dome, typical of 19th-century religious architecture in Savoy and Piedmont, was covered in stainless steel and gold leaf when the tin began to deteriorate. On a sunny day, it is a beacon pointing to the hamlet at its feet.

On the other side of the village, the Savoy style château with its thick walls and turrets strategically dominates the entrance to the harbor. Originally built by Count Amedeo V ‘The Great’ (Count of Savoy, once the “Protector of Geneva”) in 1306, it has belonged to the same family since the 1600s. Although the castle is not open to the public, the kitchen garden, known as the Jardin des Cinq Sens (The Garden of 5 Senses), with its labyrinth and rich plantings, invites you to explore in the shadow of the fortress. Use the five senses — smell the roses, touch the flowers, observe the surroundings, listen to the birdsong and perhaps taste the produce.

Meander down to the harbor, protected from the lake by a thick, stone wall. Sailboats ride at anchor as fishermen come and go, unloading their catch of delicious lake perch; nearby a cat strolls along the wall looking for the odd discarded morsel. If you want a sense of what it was like to live on Lake Geneva in days gone by, a visit to Yvoire will take you back to the time of Count Amedeo and provides a wonderful option for a day trip outside Geneva

IF YOU GO
The easiest way to get to Yvoire from Geneva is to drive, following the signs for Evian and Thoron, exiting at Yvoire in Douvaine. Since Yvoire is car-free, there are parking lots outside the Old Town. If you are driving from France on the A41, exit at Annemasse (Exit 14) or Thonon-Evian (Exit 15) and follow the signs for Yvoire. A more exciting way to get to Yvoire is on one of the steamers across the lake from Geneva or Nyon (Compagnie Générale de Navigation; www.cgn.ch for timetable. For information about what is happening in Yvoire, go to www.yvoiretourism.com).

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