During the late 1800s, Victorian houses were very popular in northern California. In San Francisco, entire neighborhoods are filled with these colorful, cheerful abodes. In Napa, the old Grandes Dames have been converted to Bed and Breakfasts that are favorites with those visiting the valley to sample the wines. The richness of Victorian-inspired architecture in Eureka, the largest town in Humboldt County, where over 1,500 buildings qualify for the national register of historical places, surprised us.

Despite its name, Eureka is a gritty town, trying hard to recover some of its previous prosperity. Its name comes from the Greek “I have found it!” which is also the motto of the State of California. This was allegedly the expression used by successful gold miners during the California Gold Rush of the 1850s.

Among the many Victorian houses built in Eureka, and neighboring Arcata, by gold miners and timber barons, there is none more stupendous than the Carson Mansion. In fact, it is considered by many to be the finest Queen Anne-style Victorian house in America.

Built between 1884 and 1886 by renowned San Francisco architects, Newsom and Newsom, it incorporates not only Victorian architecture but also Gothic, Italian and French elements thrown in for good measure. The three-storied, 18-room structure has gables, turrets, balconies, wrought iron decorations, and a balcony. At Christmas time, the entire structure is decorated with lights, making it look like a giant gingerbread house.

The owner, William Carson, was a timber baron whose lumber mills were located nearby. He lived at a time when cutting down redwood trees was considered acceptable. In fact, there is a photo of him posing with at least ten other men inside a tree with a wedge removed. Who knows how old and big that giant was?

The silhouette of the house has become the archetypal “haunted” house, including for the Addams Family, and many believe that it is haunted by at least three, if not more, ghosts.

After Carson’s death, the house was almost demolished because of the cost of upkeep. The men’s club of Eureka saved it by stepping in and purchasing it.  Today, it is owned by the Ingomar Club and closed to the public.

Across the street from the Carson Mansion is an exquisite pink and white Queen Anne house built in 1889 by the same architects. Known as “The Pink Lady,” it was a wedding present from William Carson to his son, John Milton. Its domed turret, layering and surface undulations make this a perfect example of Victorian architecture.

Just down the street is the orange and brown Carter House. The original, known as the Murphy House, also built by Newsom and Newsom, stood in San Francisco and was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake and fire. Mark Carter found the plans in 1978 in a Eureka antique store and used them to recreate the house in 1982. It is now the Carter House Inn.

The nearby town of Arcata, location of Humboldt State University, is also home to numerous Victorian houses, none more lovingly restored than the Lady Anne B and B Victorian Inn. Built in 1888 in the Queen Anne style, the house overlooks Humboldt Bay.

As the old saying “Don’t to judge a book by its cover.” Eureka (and Arcata) certainly surprise us with the elegance and charm of their architecture.

IF YOU GO
If you are in Eureka, the best place in town to stay is the Carter House Inns (301 L Street, Eureka, CA; 800-404-1390; www.carterhouse.com). The restaurant serves breakfast and dinner; cookies and tea are served in the lobby after 2000. The staff goes out of their way to ensure that your stay is successful.
If you are in Arcata, the Lady Anne Bed and Breakfast Victorian Inn is the place to stay (902 14th Street, Arcata, CA; tel 707-822-2797)

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