Redwood trees grow from Big Sur, California to the Oregon border and in the Sierra mountains, but it is only on the northern coast of California in Humboldt and Del Norte counties that you will find the tallest and largest stands of old growth coast redwood trees. These towering giants never cease to capture our imagination.

Driving along California’s beautiful, craggy coastline, are miles of trails winding along the cliffs with arches and caves; there are expanses of unspoiled beaches and rivers; old towns, complete with Victorian houses, nestled here and there. There is even a large area known as the Lost Coast, where the wilderness remains untouched and essentially inaccessible (there are no roads) except for the most stalwart hikers and campers.

Then, there are the 13 State and National Parks of Humboldt and Del Norte counties where you will find the most impressive stands of trees. When logging began in the 1850s, there were almost two million acres of coast redwood trees in the coastal mountains of California. Today, only five percent remain, of which over 35 percent are in these parks.

There are, in fact, three types of redwood trees in the world — dawn redwood trees found in China, and in California; the giant sequoias of the Sierras; and the coast redwoods. All redwoods are cone-bearing trees and get their common name from the color of their bark and wood. As we drive north towards Oregon, we detour off Highway 101 to follow the Avenue of Giants (State Road 254) that parallels the highway for 32 miles in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. it was originally built for the stagecoaches that traveled up and down the Pacific Coast of California.

This is California’s third largest state park, 53,000 acres of redwood trees, located between the tiny settlements of Myers Flat and Weott. Park Headquarters is located just a few miles south of Weott, and the Visitors Center is worth a quick stop to pick up maps of the different groves in the region.

Inching along under the canopy of massive branches, we stop frequently to admire the enormous, ancient giants, some of which are 500 years old and 200 feet high (there are other trees in the region that are more than 2,000 years old). This is nature’s cathedral! There is a sense of peace and reverence as you stand in the silence of the trees and ferns that grow around them, sunlight dappling the scene, much as if it were filtered through a stained glass window. Stand quietly near one of these giants and breathe in the musty, earthy aroma that is unique to Redwood forests. It is an unforgettable experience.

Examine a redwood closely; notice the burls that grow out of the sides, many seemingly shaped like human faces. Is this where Tolkien drew his inspiration to create the Ents — the shepherds of the trees? In fact, each of these burls is capable of sprouting a

brand new tree should something happen to the original.

This is in sharp contrast with the arcade-style atmosphere we find at the Chandelier Drive-Through Tree. It is one of only three drive-through trees in northern California, all privately owned (a fee is charged to visit). In the base of the enormous redwood, whose branches grow out of every side, much like the arms of a crystal chandelier, someone in the 1930s (at a time when caring for the environment was not high on the agenda), carved a six foot wide and almost seven foot high opening through which you can drive your car.

In addition to the massive trees, this part of California (which is a World Heritage site) is also home to herds of Roosevelt elk, the largest of the species to be found in North America. Look for them along the highways and, especially, in Elk Meadow. We ran across the 40-animal herd by the side of the road, grazing under the trees, the stag carefully keeping a wary eye out for humans that might get too close to his harem.

With all its gifts of nature, this area of California should be on your “must see” list of places in the USA where you can let your imagination run wild and your senses return to nature.

PHOTO TIP

The contrast between light and dark under the redwood canopy makes for challenging photography on a sunny summer day. Ideal conditions for photographs would be early in the morning, late in the afternoon or on a foggy/overcast day when the light is muted through the canopy. Nevertheless, by adjusting your ISO and bracketing your shots, you should be able to preserve your memories of the experience. Capturing the grandeur of the trees is quite difficult; taking close-ups of the burls that grow on the sides of the redwoods can produce some interesting effects.

To photograph the elk, a telephoto lens that keeps you a safe distance away is recommended. Although they seem tame, they can turn aggressive at any time, especially if the bull elk feels that the females of the herd are being threatened.

IF YOU GO

Humboldt Redwoods State Park and the 30 mile long Avenue of the Giants are located about 240 miles north of San Francisco along CA Highway 101.  The Chandelier Drive-Through Tree is located at 67402 Drive Through Tree Road, Leggett, CAL, at the junction of US Highway 101 and Hwy 1, 175 miles north of San Francisco.

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