The 1906 earthquake and the fires that followed significantly altered the architectural landscape of San Francisco. Over 500 blocks and almost 30,000 redwood structures, built between 1870 and 1906 (including many Victorian houses), were wiped out, thereby erasing much of what had been built with earnings from the Gold Rush. However, more than 14,000 Victorian gingerbread houses survive in San Francisco today. What better way to see them than on a walking tour?

We meet our guide, Jay Gifford, at Union Square, across from the Saks Fifth Avenue Building. He is holding a bright yellow sign with the words “Victorian House Walk” scrawled on it. There are approximately 15 of us, both locals and tourists.  The entire group boards a city bus to Pacific Heights where we disembark in front of the Queen Anne Hotel, an opulent, stunning example of Victorian architecture, built in 1890 with its own resident ghost. This is the only Victorian on the tour where you can visit the interior. It is also a fully functioning, delightful bed and breakfast.

As we walk through the streets, Jay explains the difference between the various styles of Victorian houses — Italianate, Stick Style, Queen Anne, Edwardian — each with its own distinctive style and features. Jay also points out houses where the original Victorian architectural detail was ‘smothered” (ie removed or covered up) by subsequent owners. Many of these are in the process of being restored to their original detail, the gingerbread painted in bright colors, as part of the ‘colorist” movement which started in the 1960s.

We wander up gentle hills and down, stopping to photograph lavish gardens and fairy-tale houses, some of which have been used as movie sets. The colors are stunning. Owners can paint houses in any combination they like, there are no “historically correct’ requirements. Many are an array of pastels. Others are bright colors accented with gold. Each is unique in its exuberance, making the title “Painted Ladies of San Francisco” bestowed on them by Elizabeth Pomada and Michael Larsen in their 1978 book, an apt description.

After the tour is over, Jay recommends the restaurants on Union Street in Cow Hollow. This area used to be dairy farms but it’s now a commercial district with boutiques, restaurants and small cafes where you can choose your cuisine.

Walking through San Francisco’s “Victorian” streets is a unique way to experience and feel the history of this wonderful city.

IF YOU GO
For the Victorian Walk, call 415-252-9485. The tour lasts about 2.5 hours and includes transportation from Union Square to Pacific Heights. No reservations are required. Go to www.victorianwalk.com for the latest information.

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