ÜlaanBaatar (popularly known as UB), capital of Mongolia, is a city of contrasts, with a surprise around every corner. It isn’t what you would call a beautiful metropolis, but it has a charm and fascination all its own, where the old and the new are intertwined and thriving. Although the area has been inhabited for over 2,000 years, the “city” started life in 1639 as a tented nomadic Buddhist center, changing location over 25 times until a permanent center was created in 1778. Its name also changed at least five times until 1924 when it became the capital of the then Mongolian People’s Republic and was named ÜlaanBaatar. The name means “Red Hero.’ Today, ÜlaanBaatar is capital to one of the world’s youngest democracies. There are very few old buildings in the city, which essentially consists of Soviet-style apartment blocks and huge government buildings juxtaposed with modern glass high-rise buildings. ÜlaanBaatar is one of the world’s fastest growing cities, a booming construction site with dozens of cranes lining the horizon.

There is very little green space in the city, which is not surprising when you remember that it is one of the coldest capital cities in the world and very, very dry. Intense dust storms, swirling off the Gobi Desert, are a common occurrence during some months of the year.

In the center of the city is Sükhbaatar Square, an immense rectangle presided over in the center by a statue of Damdin Sükhbaatar, the hero of the 1921 revolution who declared Mongolia’s independence from China. He sits astride a bronze horse, his arm raised in the air, seemingly pointing to the future and the new construction that surrounds the square.

Watching Sükhbaatar from nearby is an enormous bronze statue of the Mongolian legendary leader, Chinggis Khan, flanked by his two sons, Ögedei Khan and Kublai Khan. Two Mongolian warriors on horseback stand guard. Behind the statue of Chinggis Khan is the white marble Parliament House, its inner courtyard graced by a large ger (Mongolian name for a yurt) used for ceremonial occasions.

Sükhbaatar Square is a popular meeting place, especially for young Mongolians. Newlyweds walk down the marble staircase for a photograph in front of the massive statue of Chinggis Khan while groups of visiting dignitaries, many wearing the traditional deel, pose at the bottom of the steps.

The salmon-pink building on the east of the Square is the Mongolian State Opera and Ballet Theater whilst the Cultural Palace containing the Mongolian National Modern Art Gallery, with 6,000 exhibits representing both modern art and traditional fine arts, is on the east.

A few blocks to the north is the National Museum of Mongolia. Mongolia is a very ancient country, rich in history. Some even think of it as one of the ‘cradles of humanity.’ Remains of Stone Age sites, some almost 800,000 years old, are on exhibit on the first floor of the museum where you will also find a collection of gold treasures discovered during recent excavations. On the second floor is an exhibit of clothing representing all the ethnic and tribal groups found in the country. There are 400 styles of deel (the traditional calf length, a long-sleeved tunic worn by both men and women), 100 types of hats (which differ in shape and purpose), 20 types of boots (with characteristic upturned toe) as well as sashes, hair ornaments, and countless other items. The third floor is by far the most interesting with a number of items dating to the time of Chinggis Khan and his Mongol armies. There is also a fully furnished ger that provides a vivid illustration of nomadic life. Gers are still home to over half the Mongolian population (3.1 million in 2011)

Near the center of ÜlaanBaatar stands the Gandantegchenling Tibetan Buddhist Monastery (Gandan for short, meaning Great Place of Complete Joy). This is the only Buddhist monastery that continued to operate in Mongolia under Soviet rule when over 900 other monasteries were destroyed and more than 17,000 monks murdered while countless others were imprisoned. As you enter the grounds, buildings with intricately decorated rooftops line the cobblestone paths. This is a very popular temple, frequented by old and young, eager to turn the various gold painted prayer wheels, inscribed with the mantra “om mani padme hum.”

The Monastery consists of ten datsans and temples and over 900 monks live and work here. It is not unusual to see them strolling around the grounds, cell phone in hand. Inside one of the temples is Asia’s tallest standing Buddha — the Megjid Janraisig or Buddha of the Future. Originally built in 1911, the 86 foot high, gold gilded copper Statue was destroyed in 1938 (and allegedly used by the Soviets to make bullets) and recently restored. Constantly burning incense fills the air with a smoky haze as believers leave offerings and pause to spin the prayer wheels. Lining the walls of the temple are hundreds of statues/images of Ayush, the Buddha of Longevity.

ÜlaanBaatar is a city of contrasts, traditional life, and modern life, the deel versus Armani, the young versus the old, a new democracy that hums with hope for the future whilst echoing its past.

IF YOU GO
Hotel UlaanBaatar (Sukhbaatar Square 14. Gandan Monastery is open from 0830 to 1900. There is a charge to visit and to photograph the Megjid Janraisig, the only building part of the temple complex open to visitors. You can photograph the outside.

TO EAT
Although there are many excellent restaurants in the city, if you want to taste typical Mongolian food, try the Taliin Mongol (Juulchin Gudami Central).

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