Landlocked between Russia and China… larger than the combined areas of Italy, Germany, France, and England . . . the most scarcely populated country in the world… Mongolia is a land of rugged mountains, desert, lakes, and vast steppes. Just a few miles outside ÜlaanBaatar, urban congestion is replaced by nomadic gers, wide open spaces and wildlife, all accessible at Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, part of the enormous Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area.

As we drive out of ÜlaanBaatar, a paved road quickly takes us to the open grasslands where livestock — cows, yaks, double-humped camels, horses — graze against the backdrop of pine-covered mountains. In the distance, round white tents with colorful wooden doors are scattered here and there, home to the nomadic people who make up one-third of Mongolia’s population.

About 50 miles from ÜlaanBaatar, punctuated by the Tuul River, a tiny corner of the Gorkhi-Terelj National Park has been developed for visitors with ger villages to accommodate aficionados of hiking, rock climbing, horse-back riding, or communing with nature. The remainder of the park, with its alpine scenery, glacial lakes, and hot springs, is much more inaccessible.

At the base of the granite rock formation, a grass-covered meadow is home to a herd of Mongolian horses — descendants of the same breed used by Chinggis Khan to conquer a large part of the world 700 years ago. Mongolian “cowboys” sit near their felt covered ger, enjoying the warm autumn weather. Mongolians are very hospitable people, and it is customary for them to invite strangers to enter their ger, to share a bowl of salted milk tea or daraig (fermented horse milk). You might even be invited to share a meal.

A ger is an ingenious tent-like structure that can be taken apart and reassembled in less than an hour, to be transported easily on camel or horseback as the nomadic family moves to follow the grazing herds. The inside is surprisingly large. Usually, a ger has five walls of collapsible lattice (although 4, 6 and 8 sided gers are also seen), with large poles to hold up the roof. The outside is covered with felt material and a waterproof canvas. Gers are heated by wood fires that burn in the middle of the structure, the smoke escaping through a pipe in the center of the roof.

Entering a ger can be like stepping back in time, but don’t be fooled. Mongolians have entered the age of technology — satellite dishes and solar panels provide electricity and access to television. There is even scope for artistry. The furniture inside a ger is often painted in bright colors with the door being the most striking. Every ger we saw, either in the park or from the windows of the train as we rode the Trans-Mongolian railway from south to north, were painted in colorful, unique patterns, a way to mark one’s individuality.

The Gorkhi-Terlj National Park is but one of the many unique places to visit in this vast, undeveloped country where the simple life of the nomads can still be experienced in spite of encroaching modernity. But don’t wait too long to visit.

IF YOU GO
The Gorkhi-Terlj National Park can easily be reached from ÜlaanBaatar. Contact Terlj Hotel, a luxury hotel next to the Park that organizes excursions to most of the attractions. Otherwise, contact Bert at Ecotourism Ger Camp (976-993-4710. Reservations must be made by phone).
It is a nice gesture to take small gifts to thank the people for their hospitality. Pencils or pens, small flashlights or books are possible items to consider.

 

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