Petra, the mysterious Rose City of the Nabateans built in the 6th century BCE, is visited by millions of people who walk through the narrow, high-sided canyon (the Siq) to gasp in wonder at the Treasury (Khaznah) Building and the amphitheater. Perhaps they ride a donkey up almost 900 steps carved into the mountain to see the Monastery (Al-Deir); some will return at night to see Petra illuminated by thousands of candles. But very few visitors will venture into the desert to find Little Petra.

Hidden in the center of a mountain range about 5 miles away, Little Petra (Al Beidha in Arabic, meaning  White City) is thought to have been the commercial center of the city, the place where caravans coming from as far away as Egypt and Saudi Arabia would arrive, transporting silk, frankincense , and exotic spices.

But little is known about the Nabateans and the purposes of the buildings in Little Petra. Are these tombs? If so, for whom were they built? Are they dining halls or the office of tax collectors? Was Little Petra a hideaway for wealthy Nabateans? Was the god Dushara worshipped here? Your imagination can run wild.

Large structures, some with columns and doors, have been chiseled from the sandstone. As in Petra proper, you enter Little Petra through a small canyon, called Siq Barid, or the Cold Canyon because of the cold wind that blows through here in the winter. The area is crammed with houses, water channels, dining halls, and cisterns. Many of the dining halls (biclinium) have basins, part of the intricate water system which the Nabateans constructed throughout the site.

In one structure, ancient painted plaster decorates the ceiling. Over 2,000 years, weather and the smoke of countess Bedouin fires caused significant damage. However, this very rare painting has now been restored so that the first-century frescos of vines, grapes and mythological figures are colorful and almost alive.

Tiny, narrow stairs lead up into the mountains, some to hidden caves, others to more canyons which connect to Petra in a labyrinth of passages and paths. Climb to the top of the walls and witness the vast emptiness of this dry land. Feel and hear the wind whistling down the silent valleys and canyons.

The hills surrounding Little Petra are wild and isolated. With the exception of some Ammarin Bedouins who have pitched their traditional black tent and set up a drinks stall near the entrance of the site, there are few people around, adding to the mystery and isolation of this beautiful site which should not be missed.

IF YOU GO
Most people visit Petra via organized tours which focus on a few specific parts of the site. As an independent traveler, you have much more flexibility to choose what you want to see. To really appreciate the entire Petra area, you need at least 2-3 full days. The best time to visit is early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the light brings out the rich colors of the rocks. Tickets are sold until 1600 or 1800, depending on the season. You will need Jordanian dinars to purchase your tickets. If you wish to hire a guide, they are available upon arrival, licensed by the government. The Movenpick Resort Petra (962-3-215-7111) is immediately outside the entrance to the site.

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