“Why are those men wearing wetsuits?” I ask Bill as we sit eating breakfast on the terrace overlooking the Dead Sea in Jordan. “The water temperature must be over 90 degrees!” Along the waterfront, two individuals, entirely covered in what looks like skin-tight suits stroll around the grounds of the Kempinski Ishtar Hotel. But those aren’t wetsuits! They are covered from head to toe in the mineral-rich, gooey mud.

About 40 miles southwest of Amman is the lowest place on earth, the Dead Sea. Fifty miles long and 11 miles across at its widest point, it is 1,600 feet below sea level (your ears will pop as you drive down the escarpment). The water is almost 10 times saltier than the ocean which means that when you want to swim, you don’t sink. Instead, you can float effortlessly on your back and read a novel without worrying about going under. But beware if you have any cuts or scrapes on your skin. The salt will make them sting unbearably.

According to legend, the Dead Sea was formed when Sodom and Gomorrah were destroyed. In fact, on a large bluff above the water, a single solitary salt pillar is said to be Lot’s wife, struck down when she turned around to look at the burning city. The rocks around the edges of the water are encrusted with thick, glistening salt crystals, which shimmer next to the cobalt blue water. Nothing lives here!

Several hotels have sprung up along the eastern shore. Probably the most luxurious is the Kempinski Ishtar with its nine outdoor swimming pools (including an infinity pool from where you can watch the sunset across the water), gardens with lagoons, waterfalls, ancient olive trees, and the Anantara Spa where you be pampered beyond your wildest dreams.

But you can also simply walk along the water’s edge, scoop handfuls of mud from the large buckets especially placed there for your convenience, and rub yourself all over until you are completely covered. Wait about 15 minutes for the mud to dry, pulling your skin taut as it changes from a dark black to a charcoal gray, then wash it off, either in the Dead Sea or under one of the many showers along the edge.

Cleopatra did it! The Roman generals did It! And so can you! Spend a few days at the Dead Sea at the end of your Jordanian tour or else base yourself here to explore the rest of the country. Either way, it will be a unique experience.

IF YOU GO
The Dead Sea is an easy 45-minute drive from Amman. Taxis are readily available for hire to make the journey. (Visit www.visitjordan.com for more info). The Kempinski Ishtar Hotel (962-5-356-888) is the ultimate in luxury but it is pricey. Don’t miss the Antanara Spa with its steam, sauna, Jacuzzis, hydro pools, tepidarium, and spa treatments. The hotel has several restaurants.

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