Hidden in the middle of the Italian Alps not far from the Swiss border is the lush Valchiavenna valley where a tradition of hearty food is the perfect antidote to a long day of outside activity. Numerous natural caves and underground passages riddle the area around Chiavenna, the main town on an ancient north-south trade route (the word means “key”). These formed millions of years ago after earthquakes and landslides brought tons of large boulders crashing down. A consistent stream of air at 48°F wafts through the caves making them ideal natural larders, used for thousands of years to store meat, cheese and wine. Restaurants have been added to many of these caves (crotti) where locals and visitors alike gather to share a glass of Valchiavenna wine and sample the traditional food of the mountains.

Crotto Ombra Restaurant is one such cave treasure. Its name comes from the shadow (ombra) of a gigantic boulder sitting atop the cave. Inside, a 160-foot long passageway, lined with wooden shelves, is home to almost 5,000 giant yellow wheels of the famous local Bitto cheese. The chilly air is pungent with the aroma of aging cheese. Although most of these are aged for only about 70 days, others can sit in silence for up to 10 years.

Friendly, smiling waiters welcome you to a wood-paneled dining room where bright yellow tablecloths add to the cheery mood. There is a large patio with picnic tables and benches for outdoor dining. The menu is simple, featuring bresaola (beef rubbed with spices and air-cured in the Valtellina), Pizzocheri (local buckwheat pasta, pronounced petes-okeri), polenta, venison, ragu, pork, and gnocchi. The wine list focuses predominantly on products of the same area (Grumello, Sasella, and the house wine called Chiavennasca by the locals), although other Italian wines are also available.

Try the bresaola as an appetizer. It arrives, sliced paper-thin, the dark-red meat drizzled with extra virgin green olive oil and spritz of lemon juice. A sliver of Parmesan cheese graces the top. The meat is moist and delicate, the flavors enhanced by the Parmesan cheese. The regional dish of the Valtellina is Pizzocheri alla Valtellinese, a plate of dark buckwheat flour pasta served with butter, chunks of potatoes, cabbage and local soft cheese melted into the steaming pasta. Although some would argue that the dish is best suited for the winter, it tastes delicious in any season after a strenuous hike.

The venison ragú, stewed in red wine and seasoned with aromatic herbs, arrives atop a plate of sage-flavored, steaming yellow polenta. The rich taste of the meat is offset by the simplicity of the polenta, making this a truly soul-satisfying dish. If you are still hungry, try the Crotto Ombra Bitto cheese, served with fruit. The slices of the rich, nutty, tangy cheese come straight from the cave. Finally, end the meal with a bowl of fresh wild mountain strawberries and blueberries or a bowl of home-made gelato and a cup of steaming espresso.

After such a satisfying meal, a stroll through the ancient 16th-century town along the River Mera will help you digest as you marvel at the natural beauty of the surrounding mountains.

IF YOU GO
From Milan drive north to the eastern shore of Lake Como on the Milan to Venice Autostrada, connecting to the SS36 which takes you all the way to Chiavenna, north of Lake Como. Crotto Ombra is on Viale Pratogiano 14. Tel 39-0343-290133. Open 12-2 and 7-10 pm. Closed Tuesday.

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