If you look at Lake Como on a map, it is shaped like an upside-down Y. The shores are dotted with tiny hamlets, pristine villages, ornate villas, ancient churches, streams and forests, all embraced by the rugged foothills of the Alps. Protected by the mountains, the climate is subtropical with palm trees interspersed between Mediterranean pines and lush tropical flowers gracing the shoreline. The true beauty of the lake cannot be fully appreciated from the road. You have to see it from the water.

Ferries are the main means of transportation on Lake Como, traveling back and forth between the larger towns. Some carry cars, others are only for passengers. Riding the ferry will give you a unique perspective but it provides only a limited view of the lake. To see the more out-of-the-way places, rent a small motor boat and explore wherever you wish.

Hiring a motorboat is relatively straightforward. No License is required for a 40 HP craft. Fill out the rental agreement, leave a deposit and ID, and off you go. There are a few restrictions but they don’t spoil the excitement of cruising Europe’s deepest lake. Stay 50 meters from the shore at all times and moor only if you are willing to pay the associated fees. The speed limit is 15 miles per hour which doesn’t sound like much but it will provoke howls of laughter from your passengers as the boat bounces across the waves or the wakes of other craft.

The west spur of the lake is the most famous. Splendid frescoed villas line the shore south of Menaggio including Villa Carlotta with its stunning botanical garden in Tremezzo; Villa de’Este in Cernobbio; Villa Balbianello in Lenno and many others. It is easy to see how the carefully manicured lawns and immaculate villas, bathed in the magical light of Lake Como, served as inspirations to poets and painters over the centuries.

Off the shore of Lenno is Isola Comacina, Lake Como’s only island. At one time, the island was inhabited, but all that remains now are some ruins and a small restaurant, the Locanda, a popular stopping place for boaters.

In the middle of the lake, where the three branches meet is Bellagio, known as the Pearl of the Lake. Perched majestically on a promontory overlooking the water, beautiful historic and colorful buildings and cafes line the waterfront as narrow cobbled streets lead up the hill. On the eastern shore is the colorful town of Varenna, with the Castle of Vezio above.

Lake Como is so long that it is not possible to see everything on a single tank of gas which will last about four hours (be sure to turn around when you hit the halfway mark). However, you will have so much fun that chances are you will want to go out and see the remainder of the lake another day.

IF YOU GO
Boats can be rented from the Centro Nautico in Dongo (Via Statale). Each boat comes with a GPS unit for navigation around the lake. Only Visa and Mastercard are accepted. Reservations recommended. Open 1 April to 30 October. Como Lake Boats (Circolo Vela Canottieri, Via Antica Regina 36, Domaso) rents boats and also arranges for water skiing or wake boarding.

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