A Medieval Hideaway on Lake Como

A Medieval Hideaway on Lake Como

Corenno Plinio as seen from Lake Como, Italy
Corenno Plinio as seen from Lake Como, Italy

Lake Como is only one of the most beautiful lake in northern Italy. Surrounded by spectacular mountains,  colorful towns like Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna border the crystal clear waters, dotted with hamlets like Corenno Plinio, a medieval hideaway that is an unexpected surprise. Perched on a bluff on the eastern shore of the lake, north of Varenna, there are no roads or shops or cafés. The 350 inhabitants live as they have for centuries, ensconced amongst the narrow alleys, stone arches and footpaths.

The Castle at Corenno Plinio, Lake Como, Italy
The Castle at Corenno Plinio, Lake Como, Italy

Sixty-four precipitously steep stone steps lead from the cobblestones of Piazza Garibaldi (the town square) on the edge of the road to the harbor on the lake where a few small boats are pulled up on the shore. Geranium-filled flower boxes adorn the tall stone houses that march up the hill from the lake. The mouth-watering aroma of meat roasting with garlic and herbs and other delicacies wafts through the village from the lace-curtained windows flung open to let in the fresh mountain air. Lines of laundry hanging from the windows, dry in the warm sun.

Above the village are the remnants of a castle, built in 1271 on top of Roman ruins. Two towers and a few retaining walls remain, overlooking a significant part of the lake. In ancient times the castle served as a lookout for invaders from beyond the Alps. Nearby on the piazza is a small church, built in the 11th century and, unexpectedly, dedicated in 1566 to St. Thomas A Becket, the English Archbishop of Canterbury murdered during the reign of King Henry II and subsequently canonized by the Pope.

On the outside of the Church, beneath the shady plane trees, are three 14th century tombs belonging to the Andreani family, which once held sway over the area. Elaborate sculptures decorate the graves. Inside the church are 14th-century frescoes. When we visit, the church doors are wide open in preparation for a wedding, the pews, and altars decorated with bunches of bright yellow sunflowers.

On the beach at Corenno Plinio, Lake Como, Italy
On the beach at Corenno Plinio, Lake Como, Italy

We have rented an exquisite 16th-century house on the edge of the lake with our own private beach. At one time the house was connected with the castle. Terraces at various levels with steps lead through lush vegetation. The beach, strewn with pebbles as well as bits of ceramic and pottery, provides a perfect place to cool down after a day spent exploring the area. Ducks and other water birds keep us company, paddling happily under the fig trees that line the shore, the boughs heavy with big, green juicy figs, ripe for picking.

Because there are no shops in Corenno Plinio, we drive south to Dervio for our groceries and a cup of frothy cappuccino. Here, as well as in the other larger towns further south, we find places to rent kayaks and windsurfers as well as boats to explore the lake.

Corenno Plinio was the favorite vacation spot of Pliny the elder (after whom it is named). He was so enamored of the lake and its mountains that he wrote extensively about its beauty. Once you see it,  this medieval treasure perched over the waters of Lake Como will captivate you.

 

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