Wildlife is the number one reason to visit the Falkland Islands. Thousands of animals live in accessible colonies with little or no fear of people.  For the photographer it is one of the most satisfying and fulfilling experience you will ever have. For the first time visitor, it might be a little overwhelming. So we would like to start with a brief overview of some of the real denizens of these islands.

Five penguin species make their homes on the Falkland Islands: the Kings, Gentoos, Rockhoppers and Magellanic are easily spotted on several of the islands. The  Macaroni penguins are a bit more elusive with only one or two around. Each of these species has its own peculiarities. The Magellanic penguins are the only ones that build burrows into the earth. Walking around the islands you have to be careful not to step through the roof of one of these constructions. They communicate by making loud braying sounds, a trait which has earned them the nickname of “Jackass Penguins.”

The Gentoos head out to sea in the morning for a day of fishing; in the afternoon, they return with a belly of food for the chicks. They love to porpoise through the waves, leaping out onto the shore and then running around the colony being chased by offspring eager to partake of a regurgitated meal.

King penguins are regal, elegant creatures in tuxedos with a flaming orange scarf to keep their necks warm. They don’t build nests like other wildlife; instead, the parents share the responsibilities of caring for the egg and then the chick by carrying them around on their feet, protected by a flap of skin.

Finally, the Rockhopper penguins — perhaps the most endearing bird you will ever come across, with its tufts of yellow and orange hair and bright red eyes that make them look like slightly demented punk rockers. They like to live on the cliff tops, which they climb using their sharp claws, jumping from rock to rock. Rockhoppers are exceptionally curious. Plop yourself down and sit quietly. It won’t take long before a small group will hop over to see what you are doing. They might even come up and touch you!

There are two species of cormorants on the islands — the Imperial cormorants and the rock shags. The Imperials have bright blue eyes and a knob of orange above their nose. The Rock shag has bright red-rimmed eyes. Both species live in enormous colonies that you can smell and hear long before you can see them.

Seventy percent of the world’s black-browed albatross live on these islands. Their colonies contain hundreds of nests that look like stove pipes up to two feet high. Visit later in the summer and the nests are filled with pale grey furry balls — the chicks. The albatross tolerate humans, but don’t get too close or you could get covered with a putrid red goo of regurgitated squid and kelp shrimp, a sure sign that you should back off.

There are several types of birds of prey. The most aggressive and ferocious is the skua which has been known to dive bomb any human that gets too close to its chicks. A fellow traveler related how he was attacked repeatedly by a very agitated bird who shredded the rain cover on his backpack. The problem is that the skuas nest in the grass and the chicks are almost impossible to spot. The skua is one of the hoodlums in the neighborhood, preying on the penguin and cormorant eggs and chicks.

A somewhat “friendlier” bird of prey is the striated caracara, known locally as a “Johnny Rooks” because they are little thieves. Leave out a camera battery, lens cap, glove, and your lunch, and it will be gone in a flash. And don’t get me wrong — they feast on young penguins too. Having said that, these are exceptionally intelligent and social birds. An entire group of them liked to hang out near our cabin where they would wait for us to turn on the hot water in the kitchen. As soon as they saw it flowing out the pipe, they would fly over and stand in it. I guess humans aren’t the only ones who like a hot bath!

There are many other species — giant petrels, gulls, two species of oystercatchers, snowy sheathbills, several species of geese and ducks, black-necked swans, grebes and two species of owls. On islands where no cats or rats have been introduced (Carcass Island, for example) the wildlife includes various songbirds.  All of these animals are surprisingly tolerant of people and easy to photograph from close up. One species, the tussac bird will even land on your head and shoulder and ride along with you.

The wildlife includes several types of marine mammals. Giant elephant seals live on Sea Lion and Carcass Islands. The non-breeding males are a sorry sight as they loaf around on the beach with their skin flaying off. Once they have finished molting they can leave and start eating again. Southern Sea lions are found on many of the islands. The alpha male looks very much like a lion with an enormous mane. In the late summer, there are pups learning how to swim in the tidal pools, favorite tidbits of the giant orcas that can sometimes be seen off Sea Lion Island. Even though we spend several early mornings waiting for a good photo opportunity, we only catch one glimpse of an orca fin. There are two species of dolphin, the Commerson’s and the Peale’s, that regularly come in close to the shore to fish, play, surf and ride the bow wave of boats.

Even though you are remarkably free to mingle with the wildlife, this is THEIR home, and there are some basic rules to be followed. Animals have the right of way everywhere on the islands so you have to be careful not to block their routes or it stresses them; never get between a sea lion or elephant seal and the water; do not startle or chase the animals; stay at least six feet away and let the animals come to you. If they don’t perceive you as a threat, they will ignore you. Also, there are a few rules about the settlements where you will be staying. Most of the islands are private property and you are a guest. Footwear must be removed before entering the house; gates should be left the way they are found; do not smoke on the islands. Many of them are peat-based and a fire will burn for years (as it has in the past). There is no fire department on the Falkland Islands outside Stanley.

Whether you spend a few hours or several weeks on the Falkland Islands, it is an experience that will change your life and make you realize how precious these animals are. They must be protected at all costs.

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