Not far from Glastonbury, at the foot of the Mendip Hills, is Wells, England’s smallest city. What makes a city? One characteristic is the presence of a Cathedral. And Wells has a magnificent one known as the “most poetic  of English cathedrals.” Named after the four natural wells that bubble out of the ground near Bishop’s Palace, Wells has been a place of worship for millennia, long before Christianity. But it was the construction of the Cathedral (officially known as the Cathedral Church of St. Michael’s) that has made this city a magnet for visitors.

The Cathedral was built in the 13th century in the classic Gothic style. The west front is a spectacular gallery of Medieval sculpture with over 300 intricately carved statues of the original 500 (the rest are reproductions), illustrating the history of Christianity. Originally painted green and red, and gilded with gold against a dark red background, today little remains of the color.

Inside look for the famous unique “Scissor Arches” built in 1338 to support the weight of the newly enlarged tower and to prevent the medieval foundations from shifting. As you walk around the interior, you join the millions of people who have come before you. The most poignant indication of the presence of others is the worn steps on the staircase that rises to the chapter house.

Tombs and monuments are scattered throughout the Cathedral which also houses one of the most substantial collections of medieval stained glass in England, most of which survived the destruction perpetrated by Henry VIII during the Dissolution. In the north transept is the Wells astronomical clock, dating to 1386. It depicts the world before Copernicus. The sun and the moon revolve around a central fixed earth. When the clock strikes, jousting knights battle and circle the face. Recently the clock, which was hand-wound for centuries, was given a new mechanical winding mechanism.

When you have finished exploring the Cathedral, be sure to visit the Vicar’s Close, a cluster of 14th-century houses that once formed the medieval Cathedral Close. This cobblestoned alley bordered by pocket-size gardens is thought to be one of the oldest medieval streets in Europe. Originally built to house the men of the church and keep them away from the temptations of the town, it is still used by music students and members of the Wells choir.

On the opposite side of the Cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace, home to the Bishops of Bath and Wells for over 800 years, with its fortified medieval gate, portcullis, and drawbridge over a moat. These were built at a time of heightened tensions between the Bishop and the townspeople. You can visit the Gothic State Rooms where among other things you can see the ‘Glastonbury Chair,’ a prototype of a folding chair that was very popular in the Middle Ages.

So why did Wells Cathedral, in England’s smallest city, survive the reign of Henry VIII when Glastonbury which was larger did not? It is one of the enduring mysteries of English history.

IF YOU GO
To get to Wells take the M5 to exit 21 (Weston-Super-Mare) and follow the A371 to the city; there are several car parks within a 5-10 minute walk from the Cathedral. the Tourist Information Center is in Wells Museum overlooking Cathedral Green; pick up one of the many maps outlining the walks around the city (8 Cathedral Green). If you want to take photographs of the interior of the Cathedral you need to purchase a photography permit.