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North of Lake Iseo (the smallest of Italy’s northern lakes) is a broad, green valley formed when the glaciers receded at the end of the last Ice Age (about 15,000 years ago). Tall, jagged peaks line both sides of the valley, which is irrigated by the Oglio River. This is the Val Camonica where for thousands of years the rocks have served as the canvas for Europe’s most extensive open-air collection of rock art.

There are over 180,000 engravings at several sites throughout the valley (with the latest having been discovered only in the 1970s), ranging from the Paleolithic Era (pre-3,500 BCE) to the Roman Era. The largest collection can be found at Capo di Ponte in the Parco Archeologico Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri.

Believed to have been the work of the Camuni (a mysterious tribe of unknown origin named by the Romans; their unique language has yet to be deciphered), the images on the slabs of rocks or boulders show large mammals, human  figures (but very few women), hunting scenes, warriors fighting, agriculture (including a depiction of a cart with four wheels being pulled by what appear to be oxen), and shamans. There are also more esoteric images that seem to be maps, depictions of magic and, very inexplicably, footprints. In one area, Naquane, there are over 1,000 figures carved onto one rock.

The majority of the petroglyphs are reached by hiking along rocky footpaths through chestnut groves where the aroma of the forest envelopes you as you walk in ancient footsteps. The sound of church bells ringing the hour resounds across the valley. Above you, majestic mountains soar from the valley floor.

As you reach the stone, look for the description/map to explain what you are seeing. The majority are in Italian although there are some translations as well. At some sites, many of the petroglyphs are difficult to make out without reference to the map. However, as you proceed along your hike, your eyes become accustomed to the reflections and light, and it becomes easier to spot the images.

If you are traveling with children, you may wish to stop at Archeopark, an interactive recreation of a prehistoric village perched on the edge of a small lake where you can experience how ancient man survived, including how to light a fire without matches.

Visiting the Val Camonica should not take more than a few hours but it will provide a fascinating tableau of the art of our ancestors who chose to immortalize their world by chiseling pictures into the perpetual gallery provided by nature.

IF YOU GO

The Val Camonica is located north of Lake Iseo, about a two hour drive from Milan. Take the A4 east to Bergamo, then take the SS42 exit towards Edolo. There are many sites to explore but if you have limited time, go to Capo di Ponte where you can access the Parco Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri and follow the signs for Naquane (closed on Mondays). Archeopark is off the SS42 near Boario Terme (39-0-364-529-552; Localita Gattareo 4, Boario Terme). Open 1 March to 30 November 7 days  week from 0900 to 1730. Admission fee.

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