You are forgiven if you think you are in Italy! Sitting in the warm winter sunshine, sipping a rich Cappuccino amidst lavender and rose bushes, it is not difficult to let yourself be transported across the sea. Instead, you are sitting on the terrace at Tootsies, tucked away in a tiny building behind the Old Stanford Barn in Palo Alto, California

At first we are confused — Tootsies is not exactly the name you would expect to find on an Italian Coffee House! Indeed, Tootsie was the name of Leland Stanford Jr.’s pet dog and the University (which owns the structure) selected the name. There is no question, however, about the food. This is authentic Italian “Cafeteria” inspired by the foods of Puglia and Emilia Romagna, the brainchild of Rocco Scordella, the young Italian co-owner.

Look up at the large blackboards over the counter where the menu appears in English and Italian. Rocco explains that he and his staff make everything fresh daily – no sweeteners or syrup and only the highest quality ingredients. When things run out, that’s it for the day. And things DO run out quickly. If you want a Bombolone (large Italian doughnuts popular in Florence) or a plate of tiny Zeppole (round fritters) then you better get there by 1000 or there will be nothing left.

If you are there for breakfast or brunch, be sure to try the ricotta-stuffed pancakes served with fresh fruit and syrup and a dash of powdered sugar or the breakfast panino — sautéed baby spinach, crispy pancetta, pecorino cheese, and a fried egg on a ciabatta roll. Oh — and the ciabatta is homemade, grilled so it is crusty on the outside and soft inside.

Rocco, who once worked for Mario Batali (the famed New York City chef) at Del Posto Restaurant before moving to California, told us that his childhood and his grandmothers inspired the menu, although he has made a few changes to suit the American palette. For example, the Tootsie burger is a mixture of hand-ground veal, pork, and beef, blended with olives and oregano, served on a toasted rosemary roll with caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese. It is accompanied by homemade shoestring fries, crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside.

What are our favorites? That is a hard choice! Some of the perennial best sellers are the “Pollone” panini sandwich — crispily fried chicken breast and endive salad on a toasted roll; or the “Insalata di Tonno” – tuna salad made with wild arugula, cannellini beans, and shaved fennel. However, my all time favorites are the “Arancini di Riso” – risotto balls stuffed with mushrooms and melted fontina cheese, served with an arugula salad. Oh yes. The soups change daily and are unfailingly good.

Tootsies is tiny — there are seven marble-topped tables inside the former barn generator building with its brick walls, heavy beams, and unfinished ceilings. Outside, amidst the lavender and rose bushes (which are in full bloom in spring and summer), large green umbrellas over the dozen or so wooden bistro tables provide cover from the California sun. It is a favorite of the white-coated doctors or medical students from Stanford Hospital, across the street, who appear at lunchtime on any given day.

Order inside, take a number and find a seat. Within a few minutes, your food is brought out by one of Tootsies’ ultra-friendly staff. Sit back, sip your cappuccino or latte macchiato (made the Italian way with large amounts of milk and a dash of espresso), dip your fresh apricot biscotti and smile. Life is Good!

IF YOU GO
Tootsies is at 700 Welch Road in  Palo Alto between the Stanford Hospital and the Stanford Mall. It is open Monday to Friday 0630-1700 and Saturday from 1000 to 1600. (Tel 650-566-8445). Eat in or take out. Rocco is also available to cater events around the Palo Alto area.

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