Jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean on Cornwall’s northern coast is Tintagel Castle, the home of legends. Believed to have been the birthplace of King Arthur, as well as the place linked to Tristan and Iseult, this iconic site draws countless visitors who are still spell-bound by stories of long ago that speak of romance, epic heroes, chivalry, jousting knights and the rule of law.

According to Geoffrey of Monmouth’s “Historia Regum Britannieae” (History of the Kings of Britain, c 1135), Gorlios, Duke of Cornwall left his wife, Igraine, at Tintagel while he was away fighting a war against Uther Pendragon, King of Britain. With help from Merlin, Uther Pendragon disguised himself as Golois, sneaked into Tintagel, seduced Igraine and fathered Arthur. Legend then has Merlin taking the boy away to be fostered in secret until he is called to pull Excalibur from the stone.

Although the legend is quite specific about Tintagel being the place of Arthur’s birth, the facts are much less clear and, in fact, the existing ruins date to the 13th century, well after the legend of Arthur. These are the remains of a castle built by Richard, Earl of Cornwall, perhaps in an attempt to portray himself as Arthur’s successor. Nevertheless, there are many unanswered questions and mysteries about Tintagel and excavations are still on-going. As recently as 1998, a 1,500-year-old piece of slate was uncovered on which two Latin inscriptions were deciphered. One of these reads, “Artognou, father of a descendant of Coll, has had (this made).” Who was Artognou?

A visit to Tintagel Castle starts with a walk from the village down a very steep hill to the ruins of the outer gateway. The castle remains are in two parts — the original entrance and some remnants on the mainland, and the principal castle buildings on an island that was probably once connected, accessed by a wooden bridge. Numerous steep steps (about 100) lead down to the bridge and up the other side. The name “Tintagel” probably comes from the Cornish ‘din’ meaning fortress and ‘tagell’ meaning narrow, hence “The Fortress of the Narrows.”

The most dramatic ruins are those of the Great Hall with areas where the kitchen and latrine would have been located. As you leave the Great Hall, a path leads up to the headland where a series of foundations still stand. Amongst these is a small walled area where the medieval ladies allegedly spent time sitting in the garden.

Hiking around the top of the headland provides superb views of the dramatic, rocky Cornish coast, with the turquoise-green Atlantic Ocean crashing below. In the distance, the parish church of Tintagel sits on the cliffs. Below the ramparts is a cove with a Haven where vessels used to land. If recently discovered remains are any indication, there was a considerable trade that took place between Tintagel and the then Mediterranean countries in Roman times and perhaps even earlier. On the west side of the beach, a deep cave leads through the neck of the island. Tennyson’s poems “The Idylls of the King” refer to this as “Merlin’s Cave.”

The connection between King Arthur and Cornwall extends far beyond Tintagel with ruins scattered about that commemorate various aspects of his life. Not far from Tintagel, high on Bodmin Moor, is Dozmary Pool, the site where Sir Bediver is said to have returned Excalibur to the Lady of the Lake after Arthur’s death.

In keeping with the Cornish love of legends, this is also the place where Jan Tregeagle, the Cornish equivalent of Faust, was forced to dip water out of Dozmary Pond as part of his punishment to while away his time until judgment day. He escaped and, on particularly foggy nights, his cries are said to echo across the moor. Think of him when you next hear “The Ballad of the Haunted Moor,” which commemorates his escape.

IF YOU GO
From Exeter go west on the A30; take the A394 towards Camelford followed by the A39 south until you reach the B3314. Follow this road until you reach B3263 to Tintagel. You will need to Park in the village (Bossiney Road, Tintagel; www.tintagelweb.co.uk). Open 361 days of the year from 1000 to 1800 from April to September, other hours the remainder of the year. It is a half mile walk down a steep hill from Tintagel Village to the ruins. A Land Rover shuttles visitors back and forth for a fee.

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