Southwestern England (Somerset, Devon, and Cornwall) in springtime is a magical place. Nature is rejuvenating and, in the process, it stirs your senses.  An array of flowers fill the woods with fresh color. Newborn lambs gambol through the rich green fields. Swans nest along the river banks. It makes you want to shake off the grime of winter, to go outside and breathe in the fresh morning air as you wander through the ancient towns and villages, exploring off the beaten track. Perched on the banks of the river Tone, the bustling town of Taunton “capital” of Somerset County, is a good base for exploring the area, including nearby Glastonbury.

The town dates back to Saxon times. Originally named Tone Tun because of its position on the Tone (the name is said to mean ‘roaring river,’ which it may have been in times gone by), it has a rich and fascinating historic past, some of it rather turbulent. In the eyes of some, the town’s reputation was so questionable that, allegedly, Queen Victoria would draw the curtain of her train carriage if she found herself traveling through.

The source of the infamy dates to 1685 when the Duke of Monmouth rebelled against King James II and had himself declared king on the parade ground of Taunton castle. His brief attempt at kingdom ended when he lost the battle of Sedgemour (this is where the expression “duking it out” comes from). Although the Duke survived the battle, only to be captured and executed in London, over 500 of his supporters were arrested and hauled before “Hanging Judge” George Jefferey who held court in the great hall of Taunton Castle, sentencing over 140 to death by drawing and quartering. Countless others were condemned to being transported.

Today, the 12th-century castle, which is reputed to be haunted by the spirits of those condemned by Judge Jefferey, has been restored and turned into the County Museum. The remains of the keep and the moat (that date to Norman times) can be seen behind the Castle. The inside of the Castle is also being restored.

A walk through Taunton will take you from the castle across the main square, marked with a large Celtic cross, down a narrow ancient street to the Church of St Mary Magdalen, with its magnificently decorated tower and “forest” of pillars inside. Built in 1488, the tower is the highest in Somerset.

Nearby is Vivary Park with its ever-changing display of flowers. The park was once the site of medieval fishing ponds (Vivarium) used by the castle and the priory, immortalized today by the sign on the Vivary Arms Pub which shows two monks fishing. In spring thousands of tulips of every color, primroses, daffodils, and jonquils fill the flower beds, accenting the Queen Victoria fountain, the bandstand and the pond which is usually filled with ducks, swans, seagulls, and other birds, vying for food from passersby.

Towering above the park, surrounded by modern houses are the twin towers of the “Jellalabad” barracks, home to the Somerset Light Infantry that traces its history back to the Monmouthshire Rebellion, and which saw action in Afghanistan in the 1840s — hence the name on the barracks.

A short drive outside the town takes you into cider country. Stop at one of the many orchards to sample the “scrumpy” or the sweeter sparkling cider that the area is famous for before continuing to explore the surrounding area which includes Glastonbury, legendary home of King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table.

IF YOU GO
Taunton is located about 140 miles southeast of London on the London to Penzance train line. Trains depart from Paddington Station. If you are driving, Taunton is off exit 25 on the M5. Go to www.visitsomerset.co.uk for more information.

Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2014 Diana Russler