Have you ever wondered where the expression “Cliffhanger,” used to describe an exciting, suspenseful book or movie came from? Some say that when Thomas Hardy left one of his characters, Henry Knight, hanging off a cliff in Cornwall, in a serialized version of his novel, “A Pair of Blue Eyes,” the expression was born! The story parallels his own life when, as a young architect assigned from London to plan the restoration of St. Juliots Church, he fell in love with the rector’s sister-in-law.

Three miles east of Tintagel (of King Arthur’s fame), the medieval village of Boscastle sits on the sides of a steep valley. Three rivers, the Jordan, Paradise, and Valency flow into its Elizabethan Harbor, the only viable one for 20 miles along the North Cornwall coast. Until the advent of the railroad, the port was bustling with sailing ships dropping off cargo and loading slate. Today, it is a quiet, picturesque village almost frozen in time.

As you leave the harbor area, follow the Valency River as it wends its way up into the hills to the moors. About two miles up the valley, you will find St. Juliots Church (pronounced Juliet). It is ancient, having stood here for over 1,200 years. It is dedicated to St. Julitta (Sen Julet in Cornish), one of the children of King Brychan of Wales. According to a plaque inside, it started as a small rectangular two-roomed stone chapel during the time of the Normans before being enlarged to add the transepts and the massive square tower with its five bells. After the Reformation (1500s) closed the churches, the structure fell into disrepair until the mid-1800s when the Squire of the land engaged an architect to renovate it. That architect was Thomas Hardy who was welcomed at the Vicarage by the sister-in-law of the rector, Emma Gifford.

It didn’t take long for the two to fall in love and, after a two-year courtship, they were married. Unfortunately the marriage was not a happy one, and when Emma died 30 years later, Hardy returned to Boscastle, to the place where he had been happiest. It was here that he wrote some of his moving literature, including, “A Pair of Blue Eyes.”

The church has changed little since it was restored although many elements of the original structure were lost in the process. At the end of the village land, a small wooden swing gate opens onto the church grounds unless you would rather climb up the stone stile at the right of the gate. All around the typical Cornish stone church are ancient tombstones, including granite wheel-head Celtic crosses which are either the remnants of the ancient Christians or a signpost that the building nearby was a chapel. If you are lucky enough to be here in the early spring, clumps of yellow daffodils peek from behind stones, adding a splash of bright color to the stone and forest green.

Inside, a vaulted wood ceiling in the style of the oak Cornish wagon roofs forms the nave. The central arcade, credenza shell and baptismal font are original to the church. Look for the twin plaques on the walls, one dedicated to Thomas Hardy and the other to Emma Gifford.

There is also a magnificent etched memorial window, facing south, allowing the Cornish light to stream in. The window, by master glass etcher Simon Whistler, contains five sections, displaying elements related to three of Hardy’s Cornish poems. The center window presents Hardy’s first journey from Boscastle to the church, as described in his poem, “When I set out for Lyonnesse.” The right window shows Emma riding along the rugged cliffs of the coast; the left portrays the waterfalls below St Juliot where Hardy and Emma picnicked. Each window also reflects aspects of Hardy’s life. The sun and moon adorn the two small frames above the main windows.

When you have finished visiting the church, walk by the Old Rectory where Hardy and Emma Gifford lived while he was working on the church. Today, it is a bed and breakfast where the owners have restored many of the elements of the house and where you can request to be housed in either Hardy or Emma’s room. It is the perfect base from where you can explore this part of Cornwall, with its picturesque fishing villages, ancient structures and the most spectacular cliffs of the coastline which are best appreciated by walking along the tops. Just don’t fall off!

IF YOU GO
The tourist office is in the car park at the bottom of the main road into Boscastle (tel 44-0-1840-250010). If you are walking to the church, follow the Valency River beyond the car park through  meadow and wooded valley. Cross over the wooden bridge and continue up the hillside until you reach St. Juliot’s Church. You can also drive to the Church as per the directions below. The Old Rectory is at the end of the road to St. Juliots 44-0-1840-250225).
To reach St Juliot take the M5 past Exeter to Junction 31. Take the A30 (left lane) marked Okehampton-Launceston-Bodmin. Take the exit marked Kennards House (A395) towards Bude. Drive over the dual carriageway and turn left. Stay on this road until you reach the B3262 on the right, marked Otterham Station and Bude. Stay on this road until you reach a T-junction where you will turn right to Bude (A39). Take the next left signposted for Boscastle and continue until you reach a crossroads where you will turn left towards Boscastle. As you crest the hill and head towards the Atlantic Ocean, look for a sign for St. Juliot Church and Lesnewth. Follow this road until you see the Old Rectory on the right. The Church is nearby.

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