Sweeping off the windblown moors of Exmoor National Park, the heather and gorse meet the woodlands before reaching the edge of the shingle and stone-covered beach at Porlock Weir, an ancient village on the Somerset-Devon border of western England. It is the perfect romantic weekend escape, a throwback to a simpler time. A few sailboats and fishing boats sit in the mud, marooned by the low tide in this quaint and picturesque, handkerchief-sized harbor. There are no more than 4-5 buildings here. We wander past a row of doll-sized, whitewashed fishermen’s cottages that sit on the edge of the water. Delicate roses climb up the sides of the doors almost reaching the thatched roof. Further on are a few artists’ studios, including a glassblower.

The beach beyond the thousand-year-old harbor is covered entirely by rocks and shingles that clatter incessantly as the waves push and pull them. Like the rest of the coastline in this part of England, stories abound of smugglers and pirates infesting these waters. In the heart of the village sits the 200-year old Millers at the Anchor hotel, its nooks and crannies filled with thousands of books, stacked willy-nilly. Antiques of every description perch on shelves, in glass cabinets, or hanging on the walls. There are Victorian clocks, deer antlers, chandeliers, portraits, shells, paintings, and games. Peeking around a thick velvet curtain you half expect the ghost of a former inhabitant to peer from one of the many Gothic doors.

Our room, one of 14, is at the top of a circular staircase with a bay window. It is accented with tasseled lampshades, striped cushions, and comfy chairs. We sleep with the windows wide open to let in the briny sea air. The sound of the halyards smacking against the masts in the wind is our lullaby. In the morning, the gulls are our alarm clock.

The rhythm here is very genteel. At breakfast, juice and cereals are arranged on a large table; but you can also order a most delicious Full English Breakfast with eggs, bacon, sausage, mushrooms, tomatoes, and toast. Before dinner, you are invited to have a gin and tonic or glass of wine by the roaring fire in the parlor. When you are ready to eat, you are escorted to your table in the glass-enclosed dining room overlooking the harbor, its walls covered with portraits of elegant ladies and gentlemen and antique china.  The menu is inspired by locally available food and includes things like smoked mackerel pâté, pork tenderloin or veal chops with rhubarb crumble for dessert. The pace is unrushed — linger over your wine or wander back to the fire in the parlor for coffee.

If you are a hiker or walker, this area abounds with interesting places to explore. In the hills above the village, the only existing Toll road in England winds its way up to the moors above. Walking on a path off the road, you reach Culbone where you will find St. Bruno, England’s smallest complete church, believed to date from the 13th century, which also served as a leper colony in the 1500s. Or wander over to the village of Allerford where you will find the Exmoor Owl and Hawk Center. Here you can learn all about birds of prey and owls and can learn how to “Fly” them. It is truly a special moment when a Harris Hawk or a large owl swoops down out of the sky to perch on your gloved arm and accepts a piece of meat to eat.

Complete your experience with a full English cream tea in the gardens of the falconry where roosters and chickens wander around. And then plan on walking back to Porlock Weir to counteract the fabulous food.

IF YOU GO
From the M5 at Junction 23 take the A39 to Porlock. From the M3 take the A303 then the A358 to the A39. Continue along the A39 to the bottom of Porlock Hill. Turn right (signposted Porlock Weir). There is a pay and display parking lot at the end of the road. Millers at the Anchor hotel is a great place to stay (Tel 44-01643-862753)