Do you know that the Amazon is described as the “Lungs of Our Planet” producing more than 20% of the oxygen we breathe? Or that more than half of the world’s estimated 10 million species of animals, plants, and insects live here? Do you that the biodiversity is so great that on a single tree, scientists identified 54 different species of ants, more than all the ant species in the entirety of the British Isles? These are some of the facts that we learn as we explore the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, deep in the heart of the Peruvian Amazon.

Located in the triangle between the Marañon and Ucayali Rivers where these two meet to form the Amazon, the reserve is about the size of the US State of New Jersey. This pristine swath of jungle that stretches for more than 8,000 square miles is the largest protected area in Peru, as well as the most extensive area of protected floodable forest in the Amazon. There are no roads in the Amazon. To explore this intricate network of rivers and streams from the Delphi II, our riverboat home for the week, we use skiffs and kayaks, supplemented by hikes through the tropical rainforest. Our schedule for the week is simple — sail up and down the main rivers, tie up against the riverbank, then explore the rainforest.

The area is characterized by a cycle of rising and falling waters. Between October and April, much of the land is flooded by heavy rains as well as the waters from the melting snow in the Andes Mountains. Between May and September, when less rain falls, the waters drop, exposing land that the local inhabitants (known as the ribereños or river people) use to plant their crops. The seasonal rising and falling of the waters constantly change the face of the river. During our explorations, we see countless trees with black marks about 40 feet up the trunks, evidence of the height of the flooding.

Early each morning and late in the afternoon we board our aluminum skiffs, each staffed by one of our naturalists — Juan Luiz, Luiz, and Renny. They stand at the front or back of the skiff, picking out a few notes of birdsong in the cacophony of the rainforest and identify not only the species of bird but also the branch it is sitting on. The variety is endless.

Although we see only a fraction of the avian inhabitants, by the end of the week we have spotted over 160 species. We see black-collared hawks sitting on branches, cocoi white-necked herons standing elegantly on the riverbank, and horned screamers, the largest bird in the Amazon, clustered in the top of a tree. In one tree a flock of hoatzins (pronounced “wat-sin” also known as ‘stink birds’ for their unpleasant smell) chatter and his. They are unique, almost prehistoric looking birds. The chicks are born with a claw on each wing that they use to hold on. Other types of birds include 5 species of kingfishers that swoop along the riverbank. Some of the most frequently seen birds are the Yellow-rumped Caciques that fill the air with their ever-changing song as they fly back and forth from red-flowered bromeliads to their long pendulum-shaped nests.

Our guides, who are from the area, are geniuses at finding the jungle mammals. Their eagle eyes spot three-toed sloths, lounging high in the trees, turning their heads as they reach for leaves of the cecropia tree to munch. Or they identify tiny squirrel monkeys foraging high in the trees and scampering nimbly up and down the branches, stopping occasionally to peer down at the intruders. On two occasions they spot long-nosed bats sleeping against the bark of a white tree. To us, they look like discoloration until we are able to see them close up using binoculars. Their ears pick out the deep, booming sound of the red howler monkeys leaping from branch to branch or the high-pitched screech of tiny owl monkeys, hiding in holes high up in the trees. During these skiff rides, we see wildlife in practically every tree and bush although it sometimes takes us time to find exactly what our guides are pointing at.

As our skiffs move through the small rivers, we sporadically see villages on the shores, the inhabitants washing clothes or bathing in the water. They are always friendly, smiling and waving as we skim over the water. Dugouts with fishermen tending to their nets stretched along the riverbanks are a common sight. We stop at one to inspect armored catfish wriggling in the water at the bottom of the boat. This species of fish has a thick plate of bone in its head and spiky fins which it uses to drag itself up onto the riverbank where it ‘bangs’ holes in the mud with its head to lay its eggs. The fishermen also show us a piranha which they have caught. The sharp rows of jagged teeth certainly make us think twice about wanting to go swimming.

By talking to the passing fishermen, the guides learn where there might be something new to see. One day, we are waved down by locals who report that they have caught an anaconda in a net. Seeing this 17-foot long creature in the wind is a truly unique experience. When we ask what will happen to the snake, the guides tell us that the fishermen will take it further upstream and release it. They have no need to eat it since the rich river waters provide for their dietary needs.

Visiting the Reserve also introduces us to the local inhabitants who live on the riverbanks. We stop in two villages, San Francisco and Urarinas, where we drop off school supplies for the children. They thank us by singing songs, and we feel compelled to return the favor, our out-of-tune voices attempting a rendition of “Row Row Row Your Boat.” As we leave to reboard our riverboat, they accompany us, waving from the shore.

IF YOU GO
Cruises on the Delfin II can be arranged through Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic (www.expeditions.com).

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