If the tales of Harry Potter and his friends have done one thing besides enchanting readers, it has propelled witchcraft and magic out of the closet, thereby changing the perceptions of witches that have existed for hundreds of years. And there is no better place to learn about witchcraft through the ages than at the Museum of Witchcraft in Boscastle, Cornwall.

Perched on the banks of the Valency River in Boscastle Harbor, the museum is one of only two in the world (the other is in Salem, Massachusetts) to focus on the history of witchcraft. Its mission is to be non-judgmental while at the same time educating, changing attitudes and correcting many of the misconceptions that exist about witches. The museum, which is celebrating its 6oth anniversary in 2011 is also celebrating its 50th year in Boscastle, where it is one of Cornwall’s most popular museums.

Originally opened in 1951 on the Isle of Man by Cecil Williamson (himself a witch), the museum had to be moved several times because of opposition from the local population until it found its permanent home in Boscastle. And what a perfect location for it to be!  Since being severely damaged in the August 2004 floods, the museum has been restored and refurbished by its curator, Graham King. The artifacts on the two floors (the largest collection in the world) are grouped under specific headings, each with a story to tell, as outlined on the informative, small, white display cards. A library of over 3,000 books related to witchcraft or the occult provides a repository for scholars to consult.

There are fascinating things to learn at the museum. For example, did you know that

• the origin of the word “witch” is lost in time and is thought by many to come from the word “wise?”
• In ancient Greece and Rome, the word “witch’ was used to describe a beautiful seductress?
• The image of a witch as an old hag riding a broomstick in a pointy hat only emerged in the Middle Ages as part of the Church’s effort to discredit those it could not control?
• A “White witch” is someone who practices “good” magic?
• Labyrinths are thought to mark a portal to the other world?
• Evil can be reflected away from you by using any shiny surface such as reflective balls (like the ones that decorate Christmas trees) also known as Witch Balls or mirrors?
• A photograph can be used as a modern version of a voodoo doll?
• Witchcraft was banned in Britain for over 1,000 years and the 1735 Witchcraft Act was only repealed in 1951?
• Modern Witchcraft (or Wicca) is a celebration of nature?

While these are all interesting tidbits, what will shock you in the exhibits is the history of abuse and torture which innocent women (and some men) suffered at the hands of ignorant people who felt threatened by them. The first witch trials took place in England in 1566. They were replicated thereafter in France, Germany, the US, and other countries. Various methods were used to determine guilt or innocence, including throwing the woman, bound and gagged into deep water. If she floated, she was clearly guilty and was executed. If she sank, well, then she was innocent, but dead nonetheless. An example of a ‘drowning chair,’ can be seen at the museum. Next to it is a ‘Scold ‘s Bridle,’  metal cage strapped over a woman’s head, with skewers that were forced into the victim’s cheeks and tongue, to force her to confess.

As you wander around the exhibits, stop to admire the 19th-century Wise Woman sitting in her cottage, surrounded by the tools of her trade, staring into a crystal ball, trying to see into the past or the future. Don’t miss Old Horny, the mannequin wearing a goat head who illustrates the myth of the horned god, worshipped since ancient times. Look for the collection of mandrakes (which allegedly scream pulled from the ground) and the large collection of herbs and spices which are so popular today as part of alternative medicine.

When you have finished exploring the museum, wander up the Valency valley to Minster Church where, at the entrance to the churchyard, there is a small commemorative stone that reads ‘Joan Wytte. Born 1775, died 1813 in Bodmin Gaol, buried in 1998. No longer Abused.” It commemorates the “Fighting Fairy Woman of Bodmin Town,” a good witch who ran afoul of some local citizens. Her skeleton was on display in the museum for many years until Graham King organized her burial.

IF YOU GO
The Museum of Witchcraft is located on the Harbor of Boscastle. It is open between April and the end of October, Monday to Saturday 1030 to 1800 and Sunday 1130 to 1800. Boscastle is located on the North Coast of Cornwall; the easiest way to get there is to take the M5 to the Okehampton exit, then continue on the A30 towards Camelford and onto the A39 before exiting on the B3263. This will take you down to the village where there is a pay and display parking lot, which gets very full in the summers and on weekends. It is across from the Cobweb Inn. Follow the river down towards the harbor where the Museum is on the right.

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