There is something very endearing about Magellanic Penguins. These curious little creatures, waddling from sea to sand, look almost human as they gaze up at you, tilting their heads from side to side as if to gain a different perspective. Before long, they lose interest and wander off to fish in the waters near Punta Arenas, Chile.

The Magellanics are the largest of the warm-weather penguins. This means that they migrate south to mate and raise their young and then when autumn comes to the south, they swim north in search of warmer waters and longer daylight hours. Named after the explorer, Ferdinand Magellan, who discovered them during his first trip around South America in the early 1500s, the Magellanic penguin has a wide black stripe under its chin and another in the shape of a horseshoe on its stomach. Black spots are scattered on its chest while the back is completely black. As the weather gets warm, the penguins lose the feathers around their eyes where a pink patch of skin is visible. The feathers grow back after the breeding season.

Standing about two feet high and weighing about 9-10 lbs, the penguins are very agile, jumping out of the water and racing through the waves in pursuit of small fish or squid for dinner. Their thick feathers help them dive up to 100 feet under the surface, and their short fins help them propel themselves through the water. Magellanic penguins, which live about 20 years in the wild, spend their lives in the water except when they come to shore to raise their offspring or take care of their plumage.

Starting in November of each year, the male penguins arrive to build their nests, followed a few weeks later by the females. Contrary to what we expect, the nests are constructed under bushes, in sandy burrows or inside tree trunks. Walking through the area, scanning the water’s edge for nests, imagine our surprise when a penguin pops out of its burrow, right at our feet. Magellanic penguins are monogamous. The female selects the male that mated with her the previous year and lays two eggs. About 40 days later, the chicks are born; they stay inside the burrow where they are fed, cared for and guarded until they are ready to go out to sea and hunt for food on their own. The biggest threats to the little chicks are seagulls which try to steal both the eggs and the very young.

During this time both parents share “chick care” responsibilities. They appear to work in shifts. Every morning about 1000, one parent waddles out to sea to fish while the other stays to take care of the chicks. At 17000 the process is reversed. Periodically you can see the parent at the nest throw back its head and emit a braying sound as if to say “hurry up and get back here” to its mate (these penguins are also known as ‘jackass penguins’ because of the noise they make.)

If you happen to find yourself at the tip of South America, the area around Punta Arenas, Chile has two locations where you can observe the Magellanic penguins (You can also find them on the Falkland Islands as well as Argentina). Magdalena Island, about 15 miles from Punta Arenas, in the middle of the Straits of Magellan, is home to the Los Pingüinos Natural Monument with over 200,000 penguins. It is located where the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean currents meet which means that the expedition to the island by boat is invariably rough and often delayed or canceled because of weather conditions. In the middle is the island where a mass of black and white “spots” move about all around you. A few minutes away is Marta Island. Your boat doesn’t land here but you can see colonies of sea lions, dolphins and many different types of birds on the rocks.

Seno Otway or Otway Sound is the second place to visit the Magellanic penguins. The Pingüonera de Seno Otway is located about 40 miles north of Punta Arenas and is accessible by road. Wooden boardwalks guide you through the nesting area where you will be able to see a few hundred of the 8,000 penguins that live here. The rest are scattered across the area, most of which is closed to the public.

Walking through the area you can get to within a few feet of the birds. If you are lucky, a downy gray chick will stick its head out of the burrow or even step outside. One might even stroll across the path in front of you — remember that penguins have the right of way. Whether you visit them on Magdalena Island or on Seno Otway, these enchanting little creatures will become a lasting memory of your trip to Punta Arenas.

IF YOU GO
Penguin season is from October to late March. There are several companies that organize expeditions by boat to Magdalena Island including Waia Expeditions. If you suffer from seasickness, be sure to take the appropriate medication. The boats are quite small and really bounce over the waves. The trip takes about three hours. Dress warmly in layers with a waterproof layer on top.
Seno Otway is 40 miles north of Punta Arenas. Most tour companies in the city will organize an excursion to Otway Sound. The trip takes about 3.5 hours. It can be very windy and cold with rain likely, so dress appropriately. There is a small café at the start of the boardwalk where you can warm up with a cup of hot chocolate after your walk.

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