What do Saxons, Normans, Tudors, and an American heiress have in common? At one time, each of them owned Leeds Castle in Kent, described by some as “the loveliest castle in England.” To visit this little gem is to walk through a thousand years of perfectly preserved history. As you wander along the banks of the river Len, through the 500-acre park surrounding the Castle, white and black swans glide gracefully under the ancient trees. In the spring, carpets of daffodils, jonquils, and crocuses splash the green lawns and slopes with vibrant colors.

Almost magically, the Castle appears perched on three islands, its reddish ragstone, crenelated walls reflected perfectly in the wide, tranquil waters of the lake that serves as a giant moat. It is everything a castle should be complete with battlements, towers, and turrets.

The Castle has a long and varied history. The original Saxon structure on this site dates to 855, and it appears in the Domesday Book as part of the domains of William the Conqueror. A Norman baron built the first stone stronghold in about 1280 during the reign of Henry I. Thereafter, numerous kings and queens, including Eleanor of Castile, Joan of Navarre, Henry VIII and others rebuilt and modified the structure. What you see today, however, is the “New” Castle, the result of restoration and rebuilding that took place in the 1800s, complemented by the work undertaken by the American heiress, Lady Baillie, née Whitney, who acquired the Castle in the 1920s.

Approach the castle on any of the three causeways leading to it, and you will find yourself on the outer Island — the Barbican — complete with waterworks and a mill that was the first line of defense to protect the drawbridge over the moat.  Cross the stone arched bridge, and you are on the central and largest island. A walk around the edge of the lake takes you to the smallest island and oldest part of the Castle, the Gloriette — the 13th century Castle keep — with its central courtyard, great hall and apartments once used by Kings and Queens. Wander through the Queen’s Room with its rich velvet draperies around the bed. The monograms on the damask wall hangings belong to Henry V and Catherine de Valois (1420). Nearby is the Queen’s bathroom, recreated with a wooden tub surrounded by a canopy of white curtains. Bowls of herbs on the table near the fireplace provide a means to scent the bath water.

The largest room in the Castle is a Banqueting Hall, created for the visit of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon (1520). Its main feature is an enormous stone fireplace with carvings, topped with an iconic painting of Henry VIII. Be sure to look for the faces carved into the beams of the wooden ceiling.

A spiral wooden staircase takes you to the upper floor where Lady Baillie had her Blue paneled bedroom and black onyx bathroom, right next to that of Catherine of Aragon, decorated with hand-blocked wallpaper. A closet full of shoes attests to Lady Baillie’s fashion sense. Nearby is the modern Seminar Room, graced with a portrait of Lady Baillie and her two daughters. It was in this room that Foreign Ministers from Egypt, Israel, and the US met in 1978 in talks that eventually led to the Camp David Accords.

Back downstairs in the more modern part of the Castle are the rooms used by Lady Baillie. These include the Yellow Drawing Room with Tiepolo’s painting of “Punchinello’s Kitchen” over the fireplace; the Thorpe Hall Drawing Room with its wooden paneling; the Library where hundreds of ancient books line the walls; and the dining room with Louis XVI Aubusson tapestries and 18th-century Chinese porcelain decorating the walls.

Wander back outside past the separate Maiden’s Tower where Catherine of Aragon’s ladies-in-waiting once lived, to the Culpepper Gardens. Thomas, Lord Culpepper, after whom the garden is named, once owned Leeds Castle before he went off to become the Governor of the Colony of Virginia at Jamestown. In the summer, the air is filled with the aroma of roses, the blossoms gently swaying in the breeze.

Beyond the Culpepper Garden is a maze built in 1988. Lose yourself amongst its 2,400 yews. It is like a castle, complete with crenelated hedges in the shape of towers. When you get to the center, climb to the viewpoint and see how the maze mirrors the Queen’s Crown. Then try to find your way out. There is only one way –through a grotto built of shells, stones, and wood where the grotesque face of the legendary giant Typhoeus stares out at you, his eyes aflame. Typhoeus tried to overpower the Greek gods but was defeated by Zeus who threw him under a volcano. Now his likeness sits under the maze, the dome above his head decorated with black and white swans, symbols of Leeds Castle. Once a Saxon manor, a Norman stronghold, a palace for medieval queens, a Jacobean country home, a Georgian mansion and the home of an heiress, today Leeds Castle encapsulates and preserves all these personalities, allowing you to step back and experience a thousand years of history.

IF YOU GO
Leeds Castle (Maidstone, Kent ME17 1 PL; Tel 44-9-1622-765-400. Open 1000 to 1600. Last ticket sold at 1500; Open all year except Christmas Day. Tickets are valid for one year from date of purchase for multiple entries. 
If you are driving take the M20 motorway from London to Exit 8 at Maidstone. Follow the brown signposts 4 miles to the castle. The trip takes about an hour. There are also trains from Victoria Station in London that stop at Bearsted Station from where you can take a shuttle bus or a taxi to the castle. If you prefer a more organized visit, sightseeing companies in London that go to Leeds Castle include Golden Tours (44-0-207-233-7030.
If you would like to stay in the castle overnight, there is a B and B in the former stables (Stables Courtyard Bedrooms at Leeds Castle; tel 44-0-1622-767823.

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