For those of you who have played the board game, “Risk,” you know that there is a mysterious land on the right side of the board, in the heart of Asia, named Irkutsk. The name was taken from a real Russian province with its eponymous capital, Irkutsk, nicknamed, “the ‘Paris’ of Siberia” by Anton Chekov.

Founded 350 years ago (1661) as a Cossack garrison on the bank of the Angara River (the same Angara River that flows out of Lake Baikal, some 30 miles away), the city quickly became eastern Siberia’s main trading center, exchanging ivory and furs (particularly sable) for tea and silk from China. When gold was discovered in Irkutsk in the 19th century, fortunes were made, establishing this as the wealthiest city in Siberia. It also was home to the exiles and deportees such as the Volkonskys (see the previous article).

Today, it is a modern city but, fortunately, it has retained its original structures, and work is being done to preserve the iconic wooden houses built by wealthy merchants. Although many are still dilapidated, you can’t help but admire the intricately carved fretwork frames, the gingerbread scrolled eaves, and the windows with their wooden shutters painted in bright, cheerful colors.

The most famous and best-restored house belonged to Apollos Shastin, a wealthy merchant living in Irkutsk in the 19th century. Today, it is The House of Europe, an organization created “to cement the bonds of friendship between Irkutsk and Europe.” White carved shutters accent the brown wooden structure trimmed with white gingerbread along the eaves of the edges.

Throughout the neighborhood, wooden houses, shaded by ancient poplar trees, look almost like a page from a fairy tale as the inhabitants go about their business, including having to draw water from a pump on the street as none of these houses have indoor plumbing.

In addition to these houses, about 16 miles from downtown Irkutsk is the Taltsy Museum of Wooden Architecture. Outside the city in the forest, it contains an interesting collection of old Siberian buildings. Several homesteads complete with farm implements, stores, two chapels, a church and lookout towers have been recreated. As you amble through the settlement of a crisp, autumn morning, you can almost imagine the early settlers walking through the golden birch trees.

Irkutsk has a number of beautiful churches which were spared destruction under Stalin. On the edge of the Angara River, in the historic district, stands the Bogoyaviensky (Epiphany) Cathedral. Built in a sort of “Siberian Baroque” style, this salmon, white and green church is decorated with over 300 scenes depicting flowers or fairy tale characters including the babr, a mythical animal, holding a sable in its teeth, the symbol of Irkutsk’s power and wealth.

Across the street is the Spasskaya Church, the oldest brick and stone building in Eastern Siberia, decorated with gold domes and frescoes. it is the only building remaining of the original Irkutsk fort. Not far away the statue of the Cossack stands guard on the riverbank, looking inwards towards the church.

So the next time you play “Risk,” imagine yourself commanding the Cossacks who secured Irkutsk for such a long time. No longer should Irkutsk be that mysterious land in the middle of the board but a thriving metropolis that earned it the nickname “Paris of Siberia.”

IF YOU GO
Irkutsk is one of the many stops on the Trans Siberian Express. The city has one of the largest airports in eastern Russia with direct flights to Moscow and a number of Asian countries. Flight time from Moscow to Irkutsk is about 5 hours.
Shastin’s house, now the House of Europe is at 21 Fridrikh Engels Street, Irkutsk.
The Taltsy Museum of Wooden Architecture is open from 100o to 1700 in summer, 1600 in winter. There is an admission fee and a permit for taking photographs must be purchased.

TO STAY
The Imperia Hotel; 1 Polskikh Povstantsev St. Irkutsk.
Angara Hotel; 7 Sukhe-Batora St. Irkutsk.

TO EAT
Be sure to try Siberia’s traditional dish, Pelmeni (meat dumplings), a mixture of beef, pork and lamb that is fried or boiled. You can also have them as a dessert with a sour cherry filling.
Restaurant Lancelot; 2 Kievskaya St Irkutsk
Restaurant Uzbekistan; 46 Lenina St, Irkutsk

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