Walk through the historical monuments of India, and you are transported back to a time of empires, legends, and traditions. New Delhi (one of the oldest existing cities in the world) sits on the remains of at least eight others that preceded it, dating back to about 3,500 BCE, each built by a different ruler, anxious to make his mark on history. Except for a few ruins here and there, most of these have disappeared into the mists of time. However, a wealth of monuments remain in addition to the masterpieces of the Mughals who ruled over India from the early 15th to the early 18th centuries and left us such wonders as the Taj Mahal in Agra.

During our trip to India, having the chronology and historical progression of the monuments clearly mapped out helped us understand the linkages. Therefore, in this series of articles, we will take you on a journey through some of the places that make India such a fascinating travel destination. Our first stop is the Qutub Minar or the Victory Temple in a complex of medieval buildings in Delhi.

Originally begun in 1193, the building of the Qutub Minar marks the start of Muslim rule in India (pre-Mughals) under Qutub-ud-din-Aybak (a Sultan of the Mamluk (slave) dynasty of Turkic origins) and celebrates his victory over a Rajput King. Although the Minar bears his name, he did not see it completed. Construction halted at the first balcony after his death, and it was left to subsequent rulers to add to the structure. Even the British had to try their hand. In an attempt to repair the cupola added to the top of the Qutub Minar by Fero Shah Tubhlaq that fell off in 1368 after a lightning strike, in the 1800s, the British Governor General added a new one. The replacement, known as “Smith’s Folly” (after its builder) was a Hindu Chhatri style structure instead of the original Indo-Islamic cupola. To maintain the integrity of the architectural style, Smith’s Folly was removed and left in the corner of the garden where today it sits forlornly.

The most striking feature of this complex is the Victory Tower itself. It is the tallest brick minaret in the world, 239 feet high, with 5 distinct layers, each marked by a balcony, supported by elaborately decorated brackets. With a base of 46 feet in diameter, the tower gracefully tapers off to 9 feet at the top. Its alternating round or angular flutings of red sandstone are intricately decorated with calligraphy.

To build the Qutub Minar and the mosque that stands at its feet (the first mosque built in India), the conquerors destroyed 27 Hindu and Jain temples and reused their materials in the construction. It is still possible to see remnants of the original temples with their Hindu sculptures amongst the pillars. These were part of the Lal Kot, the Red Citadel, in the city of Dhillika, capital of the last Hindu rulers of Delhi.

Standing in the courtyard of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque, next to the Minaret, look for a 23-foot high iron pillar, a tribute to Lord Vishnu, whose statue may have once graced the top. According to legend, the pillar possibly dates to as early as 375 BCE and once stood in the center of the destroyed Jain temples. The pillar is significant because it has not rusted or eroded over 16 centuries, a testament to the metallurgical skills of the ancient inhabitants. Popular folklore states that anyone who can stand with their back to the column and encircle it with their hands will have their wish granted. So many people have tried to prove the legend that a fence how protects the column.

As part of the culture of rulers to want to surpass the accomplishments of their predecessors, a subsequent Sultan, Alauddin, started construction on a second tower — the Alai Minar — that was supposed to be twice the height of the existing minaret. Following Alauddin’s death, construction stopped and the remains of the tower sit, abandoned, on the edge of the complex near the tombs and ruins.

The Qutub Minar was the first in a new style of architecture in India. A few hundred years after its construction, Babur, a nomadic warrior from Afghanistan (a distant descendant of Genghis Khan and Timurlane the Great), captured Delhi from the Sultans. But Babur did not care for the weather in Delhi and quickly returned to the cool mountain air of Kabul, leaving the Empire in the hands of his favorite son, Humayun. Thus began the reign of the Mughals in India and the further development of this new style of architecture, which will be the subject of subsequent articles.

IF YOU GO
The Qutub Minar complex is located in Ladha Sarai, Mehrauli, Delhi, India. Most tour companies automatically include a visit to the Qut’b Minar as part of their itinerary; however, if you enjoy traveling independently, you can hire a taxi to take you to the complex and wait for you. Most hotels will also be happy to recommend an independent, licensed guide.

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