Some 26 miles from Agra and its famed Taj Mahal (in Uttar Pradesh, India) stands an immense ghost town of pavilions, royal palaces, and other buildings, enclosed in a fortified sandstone wall. It has stood here for over 425 years since the Mughal Emperor, Akbar the Great, abandoned it shortly after its completion in the second half of the 16th century. This is Fatehpour Sikri (the name means “City of Victory”), the first planned city of the Mughals and perhaps one of the best-preserved examples of Mughal architecture in India.

At a time when the Renaissance was in full bloom in Italy, Akbar was India’s own charismatic Renaissance man, passionate about knowledge, art, architecture, and music. His rule espoused liberal ideas, emphasizing cultural integration and a respect for all faiths and beliefs; he was a strong military leader; and, if the legend is correct, he even tried his hand at tatting lace.  Having moved the capital of the Mughal Empire from Delhi to Agra, Akbar decided to move it yet again, building a new city at Fatehpour Sikri. The impetus to build in this elevated, desert location was the heir-less Akbar’s desire to thank Sheik Salim Chishti, a beloved Sufi Mystic who, he believed, blessed him with a son, Jahangir. Childless women still visit the tomb of Salim Chishti, attaching a thread to the latticework in the hopes that they will also be blessed. The Sheik’s white marble tomb sits inside the courtyard of the Jami Mashid Mosque, accessed through the Buland Darwaza (Victory Gate) that commemorates Akbar’s victory over the Gujarats. According to our guide, a Koranic inscription inside the arch of the gate reads, “The world is a bridge, pass over it, but build no houses upon it.”

As you wander through the complex, Akbar’s religious tolerance is evident from the mixture of Islamic, Hindu, Christian, Zoroastrian and Sufi symbols used to decorate the buildings throughout the complex. The best example of this is in the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences) where a massively carved stone pillar stands, connected to the four corners of the room by stone bridges. It is here that Akbar is believed to have debated the merits and insufficiencies of the various belief systems with scholars.  Nearby a series of buildings cluster around the courtyard with its centerpiece, the Anup Talao, an ornamental pool consisting of a central platform with four bridges leading to it. Akbar’s legendary court musician, Tansen, is said to have performed regularly on the island. Along with writers, poets, financiers, and mystics, Tansen was considered one of the Navaratnas (the Nine Jewels) of the court that advised Akbar.

Nearby is the five-story wedding cake-shaped pavilion, the Panch Mahal, open on two sides to let in the cooling breezes. The floors decrease in size from the bottom level with its 84 uniquely decorated columns to the top floor with a single chhatri. The most elaborately decorated of all the buildings in this area is the Rumi Sultana (home of Akbar’s Turkish Muslim wife) where every inch of space is covered with intricate carvings. Akbar’s private quarters (the Khwabgah) are housed in an impressive three-storied building that was once connected to the Panch Mahal through a covered passageway. Here the Emperor had his library and a chamber where he held secret meetings with his advisors. His sleeping chamber, on the first floor, is surrounded by a pillared veranda providing cross-ventilation.

Outside the walls is a stone tower adorned stone elephant tusks. According to legend, it is the burial site of Akbar’s favorite elephant, Hira Minar. Akbar had over 5,000 trained war elephants which he used to good effect as he consolidated his power over most of northern and central India.

Historians are not sure why Akbar abandoned this magnificent city so soon after its completion. According to one theory, there was simply not enough water in the area to support the city. Another says that Akbar (who moved his capital to Lahore) wanted to be closer to an area that was not entirely pacified. Irrespective of the reason, the ghost town of Fatehpour Sikri provides a unique glimpse into the world of the Mughal Empire under Akbar the Great.

IF YOU GO
Fatehpour Sikri is about 26 miles from Agra. If you are staying in Agra, you can either hire a taxi and go on an independent visit or join a package tour organized by hotels and travel agencies. If you wish to travel independently, it is a good idea to hire an official guide through your hotel or even check at www.toursbylocals.com to find one. (It is better to avoid the so-called guides who hang around the gates to the city). The complex is open from sunrise to sunset, and there is an entry fee for those over 12. The best time to visit is between November and March to avoid the excessive heat. Photographers may wish to visit around sunset to capture the play of light on the monuments.

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