Jagged peaks  . . . sheer rock walls . . . soaring pinnacles . . . these are only some of the words you can use to describe the Dolomites, surrounding the idyllic mountain town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, north of Venice. Set in an amphitheater-like valley, amidst stunning peaks, some soaring over 10,000 feet, this is one of the most famous destinations in the Eastern Alps. But, in contrast with the surrounding beauty, the towering summits hold a secret and the remains of one of the highest and most improbably areas of conflict of The Great War, World War I.

From the early 1500s until 1914, the Dolomites (in the province known as South Tyrol) belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. During World War I, the region became a battlefield between Austria and Italy with thousands of men fighting to achieve tactical superiority amongst the crags and valleys of this indescribably beautiful place. To protect themselves from the onslaught, as well as to reach strategic positions where they could attack the enemy, the soldiers dug extensive tunnels (some a mile long, others on two levels) into the solid rock of the mountains. To move men and supplies up and down the sheer rock faces, Vie Ferrate (literally, “Iron Roads), a series of metal and iron ropes and ladders were put into place. With the end of the war, the 1919 Treaty of Versailles gave the South Tyrol to Italy. The remnants of the battlefield remain.

Today, the area is a four-part open-air museum (on the Lagazuoi, Cinque Torri, Sasso di Stria and Forte Tre Sassi mountains) where the bunkers, sandbags, tunnels and barbed wire still bear silent witness to the needless death and destruction as well as the determination and ingenuity of both sides.

An extensive network of paths offers endless possibilities for hikes, while over 56 rifuggi (mountain huts) in the area provide a place to stay as well as a simple, hearty, unfailingly superb meal.

How much of the area you visit depends on the time you have as well as the weather. A visit to the four parts of the museum will take 3-4 days. If you have only a day to spare, ride the cable car up the Cinque Torri (once headquarters of the mountain artillery unit focusing cannon fire on the Austrian emplacement on the Lagazuoi). A few feet away from where you disembark, you will find bunkers and shelters used by the soldiers. Visit the storehouses and emplacements. Imagine the daily life of men in one of the harshest and most beautiful battlefields you will find. Imagine them standing on sheer, exposed rock faces as rain, sleet and snow pummel them. Imagine them trying to keep warm without having wood to burn or warm clothes to wear. Then, stop at the Rifugio Scoiattoli (Squirrel Refuge) where, in contrast, you can warm your hands on the giant wood-burning stove and have a gourmet meal. For the more athletically inclined, the Refugio Cinque Torri is a few hundred feet higher up the mountains.

You can also ride or hike to the top of Mt. Lagazuoi where you will find tunnels and military bases hidden in the bowels of the mountain. The Lagazuoi Refuge is well-known for its superb terrace where you can enjoy a plate of strudel and glass of wine overlooking a panorama of the entire area like an eagle in its aerie.

The Dolomites are amongst the most attractive mountain landscapes in the world, a fact recognized by UNESCO when it placed them on the list of World Heritage Sites in 2009. Looking at the scene today, it seems improbable that so many men would have been sacrificed to hold these rocks for seemingly little gain — a testament to the continuing folly of humankind.

IF YOU GO
The best time to travel to this area if you want to hike is between May and October. You can fly to Venice in Italy or Innsbruck in Austria and rent a car. There is no train service to Cortina d’Ampezzo but the area is well serviced by bus lines. Routes and schedules are at www.dolomitibus.it.
Stop at the Cortina tourist office (Via Marconi 15b, Cortina d’Ampezzo) or email Cortina@dolomiti.org to get maps and information. If you are planning to climb the Vie Ferrate you will need a helmet and a harness, which are available locally for rent. For guided tours, especially on the Vie Ferrate, call 39-0436-868505 in Cortina.
There are four parts to the open air museum (Il Museo all’aperto della Grande Guerra sul Piccolo Lagazuoi): The Cinque Torri (several easy hiking routes, taking between 15-45 minutes through restored emplacements); the Lagazuoi (easy to moderate hikes that can last from a few minutes to an entire day depending on how much of the fortress you wish to see); the Sasso di Stria (easy walking along the trenches or through the Goiginger tunnel to reach the peak), the Tre Sassi (the only part of the museum with an entrance fee. Here you will be able to see how the soldiers lived day-to-day. Tel 39-0436-861112; open 1000 to 1300 and 1400 to 1700. One hike leads to the Lake of Valparola.

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