Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Hole, Wyoming

The Grand Tetons at sunrise, Wyoming
The Grand Tetons at sunrise, Wyoming

Grand Teton National Park and its mountains are probably the most photographed in the continental United States, and it is easy to see why. Unlike most mountain ranges, they soar into the blue Wyoming sky direct from the valley floor. There are no foothills or other obstructions to block the view. They are so compelling that your eyes are inexorably drawn towards their towering glacier-covered peaks above the Snake River.

The Snake River, Teton National Park, Wyoming
The Snake River, Teton National Park, Wyoming

With six peaks over 12,000 feet, you can imagine the wonder of the first inhabitants of this area. The Shoshone tribe called them “Teewinot” (Many Pinnacles); later explorers named them “Shark Teeth” until finally, French Canadian trappers came up with the name that stuck to this day “Les Trois Tetons” or the Three Breasts.

The 48-mile long Jackson Hole (Valley — a ‘hole’ is a word used by mountain men to describe a high valley totally surrounded by mountains) is named after David Jackson (originally it was called Jackson’s Hole), a partner in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company who explored this area in the 1800s. The main town, Jackson (near the southern end of the valley), also bears his name as does the largest lake.

If you love the outdoors, this is the place for you, irrespective of the season. In summer and fall you can hike, bike, climb, raft, fish, boat, ride horses. In winter the mountains provide excellent ski and snowmobiling facilities; and in spring, the wide open flats provide ample opportunity to cross-country ski or snowshoe. But the main attraction in Jackson Hole is Grand Teton National Park, open year round, with spectacular views and over 60 species of mammals including bears, elk, bison, deer and innumerable species of birds amongst which are trumpeter swans.

Arch of Elk horns in Jackson, Wyoming
Arch of Elk horns in Jackson, Wyoming

If you are a photographer, spring is a good time to visit. Most of the roads are open, there are very few other visitors and the animals are active, coming out of hibernation, giving birth to their young, moving towards the mountains. As you drive through the park, be sure to stop at Cathedral Overlook near Jenny Lake where you will have an unimpeded view of the summits of the Central Massif: Grand Teton (13,770 ft), Mount Owen (12,927 ft), Teewinot (12,325), Middle Teton (12, 804) and South Teton (12,514). Drive out to the Snake River Overlook at sunrise to catch breathtaking views of the sun illuminating the peaks and turning the wispy clouds into pink powder puffs.

The most spectacular spot for viewing wildlife, and especially birds, is Oxbow Bend, a section of the Snake River that doubles back on itself. It is here, in the shadow of Mount Moran, that you will see osprey fishing for trout… flocks of pelicans flying in formation …. moose drinking from the riverbank and many other marvels.

Further up the road lie Jackson Lake and the dam that was built across it to provide irrigation for farmers in Idaho. The lake is the remnant of a large glacier, fed by the Snake River. Although it is still mostly frozen when we visit in early May, there is enough open water to create a beautiful reflection of the peaks. Continue up the road towards Yellowstone National Park (the south entrance opens after 15 May) towards Coulter Bay. It is here that you stand the best chance of viewing a newly awakened grizzly or black bear, wandering along the road, feasting on road kill. Be sure to give them a wide berth.

Apart from the park itself, there is much to explore, especially on the other side of the valley, along the Gros Ventre range. This is where you can find big horned sheep, grazing in the Elk Preserve as well as moose, bison, and herds of elk. Just outside Jackson is the Bridger Teton National Forest, the second largest forest in the United States outside Alaska. With its more than 1.2 million acres of wilderness, it includes the Salt and Wind Rivers, thousands of miles of unspoiled waterways and Gannet Peak (Wyoming’s highest Point).

Black bear roaming through the Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming
Black bear roaming through the Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

As you stand at Teton Point Outlook in the evening, with the sun setting behind Grand Teton, the words to “America the Beautiful” with its “purple mountain majesties” come to life. It is captivating beyond compare.

IF YOU GO
Grand Teton National Park begins about 5 miles north of Jackson on Highway 89. There are entrance gates at Moose Junction (12 miles north) or Moran Junction (about 30 miles north). Between May and October, you can drive further up Highway 89 and access Yellowstone National Park (about 60 miles north).

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