Not far from Jefferson’s Monticello stand the family homes of James Madison and James Monroe, respectively the 4th and 5th Presidents of the United States. Whilst nowhere near the size and glamour of Monticello, Montpelier and Ash Lawn-Highland, on the Presidential Trail in Virginia, often overlooked, offer interesting insights into the lives of these two men. They were both members of the group of enlightened individuals who ‘founded’ the United States.

Montpelier was the home of James Madison, regarded as the “Father” of the United States Constitution and author of the Bill of Rights. According to legend, his wife, Dolly, was the first Presidential spouse to be known as the “First Lady.” The property which was sold by Dolly following Madison’s death has recently been completely renovated and restored to its original condition. The rooms are still sparsely furnished although efforts are underway to recover the original furnishings and ornaments.

Nevertheless, the docents work hard to bring the house to life with anecdotes and stories about James and Dolly. Of particular interest is the room on the second floor where Madison locked himself away and, surrounded by thousands of books in Greek, Latin, French and other languages, pored through the writings of the ancients, analyzing them to find the best form of government for the new country. His desk was placed in front of a large window looking out over the Blue Ridge Mountains, the soothing view giving him respite from the monumental task he had undertaken.

A walk through the plantation (2,650 acres) will take you across the lawns to an exquisite walled and terraced formal garden behind the house that was renovated by the subsequent owners, the Du Ponts. There is also the Landmark Forest with its 200-year-old trees and the Madison’s Temple, north of the mansion. Not far away are active archeological digs where excavations are unearthing the slave quarters, kitchen and smokehouses.

As you drive up a long, winding driveway through meadows and trees, you will notice a tiny racetrack on your right, complete with a two-horse starting gate. This is a legacy of the Du Pont family, the last private owners of Montpelier who also started the annual Montpelier Hunt Races on the property. In recent years, the Retired Thoroughbred Foundation has been housed on the property.

A few miles south of Montpelier, near Monticello, is the home of James and Elizabeth Monroe. In an effort to create “a society to our taste” Jefferson encouraged Monroe to move to Highland (the Ash Lawn part of the name was added after Monroe’s death), actually selecting the site for the house and organizing the planting of the property and the gardens. Sitting at the end of a long, tree-lined alleyway is an elegant plantation house, significantly more modest than the properties at Monticello and Montpelier. Many of the original furnishings remain, brought to life by the guides through fascinating stories about this remarkable couple.

Monroe was the last of the “Founding Fathers” to serve as President but he served his country in more major offices than any other President. He was a US Senator, Minister to France, England and Spain, Governor of Virginia, Secretary of War and Secretary of State. As Jefferson’s special envoy to France, Monroe negotiated the Louisiana Purchase with Napoleon. It was for this feat that Napoleon presented a bust of himself to Monroe, now displayed in the front room. Nearby the velvet dress, which looks as if it should be worn by a child, belonged to Elizabeth. She wore it to Napoleon’s coronation.

Elizabeth was as much a character as her husband. During his time as Minister to France, through visits to the prison and gentle persuasion, she saved Adrienne LaFayette from the guillotine, while Adrienne’s grandmother, mother, and sister were not so fortunate. In the downstairs hallway, you will see royal china which had belonged to Marie Antoinette (notice the M painted on flowers and the A in gold); nearby is the china which was commissioned for the First Family — the first set of Presidential china.

In the kitchen under the house, you will see typical implements used in open hearth cooking, as well as a ‘tea brick.’ In order to prevent the tea leaves from blowing away during transportation or becoming moldy, they were compressed into a rectangular brick. To make tea, a piece was broken off and dissolved in boiling water.

Ash Lawn-Highland (now run by the College of William and Mary) is a full working farm. As you walk around the grounds, sheep and other livestock, as well as peacocks, roam around, probably much like they did in the days of Monroe. Monroe’s Presidency was termed “The Era of Good Feelings.” He served two terms and is best remembered for the Monroe Doctrine which has formed the cornerstone of US foreign policy since his time.

Monroe died on July 4, 1831, following his predecessors, John Adams, and Thomas Jefferson, who both died five years earlier on July 4, 1826, on the 50th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. While history books will provide you with the facts about these Presidents and their accomplishments, a visit to their Montpelier and Ash Lawn-Highland mansions will bring them to life and emphasize the debt that modern America owes these individuals.

IF YOU GO
Montpellier is at 11407 Constitution Way, Montpelier Station, VA. Tel 540-672-2728.
Ash Lawn-Highland is at 2050 James Monroe Parkway, Charlottesville, VA Tel 434-293-8000.