One of the options when riding the Trans-Siberian Express is to start the adventure in Beijing, China. This immense city (which is the size of Belgium) has roots deep in the past, having once served as the capital of Kublai Khan (grandson of Chinggis) who presided over the largest empire the world has ever seen. Today, Beijing is a glittering, modern city with skyscrapers, the latest fashion houses, and Mercedes Benz cars, juxtaposed with small alleys, traditional street life, bicycles, and motorbikes. The central part of the city is rich in history — Beijing has 4 of China’s 41 UNESCO World Heritage Sites — and you could spend weeks exploring nooks and crannies. If you have a limited amount of time, there are 5 attractions (besides the Great Wall of China) that you must not miss.

TIANANMEN SQUARE AND THE FORBIDDEN CITY
At sunrise and sunset every day of the year, a flag-raising ceremony takes place on Tiananmen Square, across from the Gate of Heavenly Peace which leads into the Palace Museum. A precision-marching honor guard from the People’s Liberation Army (108 paces per minute, 3 feet per pace) halts traffic as it enters the square to raise/lower the Chinese national flag. It is an event that draws a large, mostly local crowd, who watch in silence from behind the white barriers before breaking into applause.

Tiananmen Square is the center of the city, the symbolic heart of the Chinese universe. It is also the world’s largest square where events have played out, and it is a good place to start your walk into the Forbidden City, off-limits to all by the Imperial Family for over 500 years.

The Gate of Heavenly Peace (with its portrait of Mao Tse Tung hanging over the entrance) was once one of the four gates through the red brick Imperial Wall, which surrounded the Forbidden City. The Gate itself has five doors, reached by crossing seven bridges. The central door was reserved for the exclusive use of the Emperor. Cross a large plaza inside the wall used for support staff and you reach the massive Meridian Gate once used by the Emperor. To visit the Forbidden City today, you follow a one-way prescribed path, entering through the Meridian Gate and exiting through the northern Gate of Spiritual Valor. Only some of the 70 halls and 9,999 rooms, once used by 24 successive Ming and Qing emperors, are open to visitors but you can spend an entire day exploring and following in the footsteps of Emperors.

As you cross over the Golden Stream, shaped like a Tatar bow and spanned by five marble bridges, the Gate of Supreme Harmony is directly ahead of you, overlooking a massive courtyard that could hold up to 100,000 people attending an imperial audience.

Palace after palace, temple after temple fill the City. Their names reflect the occupations of the Imperial Family: The Gate of Heavenly Peace; the Gate of Military Prowess; the Hall of Joyful Longevity. There are walls within walls, gates, halls, pavilions, tiny gardens, the palace where the Emperor’s concubines slept, the library and more.

Finally, as you step through the Gate of Terrestrial Tranquility, you reach the Imperial Gardens built in 1417. Here, amidst the ancient, twisted cypress trees, walkways wind through the twenty pavilions, rockeries, and fountains. Look for the intertwined 400-year old pine trees in front of the Hall of Imperial Peace and imagine what the garden must have looked like when the Imperial Family strolled through it.

SUMMER PALACE
Even the Emperor could not escape the torpid Beijing summers in the Forbidden City. Instead, he and his court would move to the Summer Palace some 6 miles away in the Fragrant Hills.

Vandalized and partially destroyed by Anglo-French troops during the Second Opium war of 1856, the Summer Palace was rebuilt in 1888 by the Empress Dowager Cixi, a former concubine who rose to be the de facto leader of China for over 47 years. She is usually portrayed as a despot and a villain, although perhaps her gender had something to do with how she was perceived. Nevertheless, in the eyes of many, she symbolized the decadence of the Imperial Family, and she certainly didn’t change that perception when she used funds intended for the navy to rebuild the Summer Palace. The only naval connection is the magnificent marble boat that sits in Lake Kunming, forever immobile.

Wander beside the lake and along the walkways, where arched bridges and decorated corridors lead you to Buddhist temples, palaces, pavilions, and gate towers. Climb up to visit the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity on Longevity Hill. Take a ride on one of the fanciful dragon boats or rent a small paddleboat to explore the lake on your own, navigating under 17-Arch Bridge which crosses the lake. Take your time walking through the grounds under the willow and mulberry trees to explore hidden corners. Each will present a surprise or an unexpected vista.

TEMPLE OF HEAVEN PARK
Your first impression, as you enter this immense park, is crowds of people having fun. As a result of China’s young mandatory retirement age, so-called “senior citizens” have to find something to do to pass the time. Large numbers of them congregate in the park during the work week. Some sit along the benches playing board games, knitting or socializing. Others practice Qi Gong or Tai Qi or fly kites while others do aerobic exercises. There is even ballroom dancing going on around the plaza.

The park, which is of Confucian design, is filled with grassy areas and shaded by ancient trees, including 4,000 cypress trees, some of which are 800 years old. Fountains and rock gardens are hidden here and there in this oasis of tranquility, disturbed only by a patrolman on a Segway zipping through the trees.

The park has a number of temples dominated by the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, a three-tiered marble terrace capped by a triple-eaved purple and blue umbrella roof. In ancient China, the Emperor was considered the Son of Heaven, responsible for affairs on earth. It was his job to ensure that the harvests were plentiful, and it was to this temple that he came to pray for a good yield.

As you walk back through the park, stop and participate in one of the many activities. You will be rewarded with smiles of appreciation and howls of laughter as you attempt what comes naturally to the locals. It is all in good fun!

THE BELL AND DRUM TOWERS
Before the invention of clocks, telling time (especially at night) was a challenge. As early as the Han Dynasty of 206 BC, the Chinese resolved this problem by building drum and bell towers that would sound the hours for the people, helping them live and work. In Beijing, the towers are about 100 yards across a square from each other. The Drum Tower kept time at night, while the Bell Tower kept time during the day. The acoustics are so good that the sounds could be heard across the old city.

The Bell Tower (originally built in 1272 and rebuilt twice) has two floors. On the second floor is the largest, heaviest copper bell in China, standing 23 feet high and weighing over 138,000 lbs. Two long, thick, wooden logs hang sideways nearby and were used to ring the bell at sunrise and sunset.

The Drum Tower is reached by climbing 63 vertiginously steep stairs to the second floor where one big drum and 24 smaller drums line the room. Only the big drum is original, the rest are replicas. In olden days, the drummers themselves used a water clock to determine the time. Beginning at 7 pm the drums were beaten every two hours through the night until 7 am. Not only did this inform the people of the time, but it also set the time for the changing of the guards in the city. The drum was beaten quickly 18 times and slowly 18 times for three rounds, a total of 108 bets. The number 108 represented one year in ancient times. Time your visit so that you can witness a demonstration of the drumming ceremony performed by young men and women dressed in red and white uniforms.

A DRIVE AROUND THE HUTONGS
No trip to Beijing would be complete without a rickshaw drive through the narrow streets and alleyways of old Beijing known as the Hutong. Unfortunately, many of these ancient parts of the city have been destroyed to make room for the luxury high-rise buildings. However, there has been a realization that traditional old Beijing must not be destroyed and efforts are being made to preserve the Hutongs. One-third of Beijing still consists of Hutongs, providing a balance between the old and the new, with one of the nicest areas near the Drum and Bell Towers.

Bicycle-powered rickshaws are a traditional form of transportation in the Hutongs, and line of them around the square await riders. A rickshaw ride will give you a glimpse of traditional Chinese life — elderly people play mahjong in the handkerchief-size parks, colorful markets and stalls selling local food line the tiny alleys that weave between the houses; thick red doors decorated with golden dragons protect the houses behind the walls.

IF YOU GO
Distances in Beijing are vast, even if they look close on the map. The subway is a reliable way to get to many destinations in the city. You can buy a rechargeable transport card that can also be used on the buses. Taxis are another alternative but few drivers speak English so it is best to get your hotel concierge to write out where you want to go and be sure the meter is set before you drive off. At all tourist locations, there will be self-proclaimed guides who will pester you to hire them. Renting a self-guided audio system is a better alternative. To reach the Forbidden City, take Subway Line 1 to Tiananmen East or West and walk through the Gate of Heavenly Peace. If you are carrying a backpack or bag, expect to be scanned several times. The City is open from 0830 to 1630. Try to avoid visiting on the weekend or public holidays. Some credit cards are accepted to purchase tickets. Separate admission is charged for the Hall of Jewelry and the Gate of Heavenly Peace.

The Summer Palace is open from 0830 to 1700. Take subway Line #4 to BeiGongMen station at the North Palace gate. Admission fee required. you can spend an entire day exploring the Summer Palace which is best visited in spring, summer or fall. In winter the lake is frozen.

The Temple of Heaven Park is open 0600 to 2100. The Temple is open from 0800 to 1800. There are separate admission fees for the park and the temple. Take subway line #2 to Tiantandongmen stop.

The Drum and Bell Towers are open from 0900 to 1700; a single ticket will get you into both locations. You can take Subway Line #2 (Ring Line), exist at Guloudajie Station at Exit B and walk south. The Drum ceremony takes place every hour on the half hour.

Hutong Tour: Although it is possible to hire a rickshaw, most of the drivers speak only Chinese and communications can be a challenge. Be sure to agree on a price and a length of time before you climb aboard. If you prefer a guided tour of the Hutongs, several Beijing companies offer this option. Ask your hotel for recommendations.

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