Ask any number of people on the streets of San Francisco if they know where Filoli is and you will be greeted with a shrug or a shake of the head. “What’s Filoli?” is the standard response. Ah! Filoli!

Nestled at the base of the Santa Cruz Mountains in Woodside, California, is a huge estate complete with mansion and formal gardens, orchards and sunken pools. This is Filoli — a magnificent example of California’s Golden Age. Originally created in 1919 by the owners of the Empire Gold Mine (William Bourn), the name was created by combining the first three letters in the words of Bourn’s credo: “FIght for the cause; LOve your fellow man; LIve a good life.”

In 1936 the estate passed to the owners of the Matson Navigation Company (the Roths), who kept it until 1975 when Mrs. Roth donated it to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Today, it is open to the public and a delightful place to visit.

Although docent-led tours are available, it is much more fun to wander the stately mansion on your own, stopping as you wish to admire the eclectic collection of English, French and Spanish architecture with 43 rooms and 17 fireplaces. Furnishings are original to the period, crystal chandeliers dangle in every room; rugs and tapestries decorate the floors and walls, and every room is accented with huge arrangements of flowers from the Filoli Gardens.

Stop in the Kitchen and Butler’s Pantry with its walk-in vault filled with Tiffany Silver. Note the dumbwaiter to the second floor and the old-style servants’ call board.  In the dark, wood-paneled dining room, admire the intricate needlepoint screen positioned to shield the diners from drafts.  Contemplate the library with its walls of books and a large fireplace surrounded by comfortable chairs or spend some time in the study with its bar built into a large walk-in safe, hidden in the wall.

When you reach the ballroom, imagine yourself stepping out on the parquet floor and waltzing across the 70-foot long room beneath the extravagant murals of Ireland’s Muchross House and Abbey. If you are lucky, a live pianist will be playing under the chandelier.

Wander outside, and you step into a majestic, multi-faceted garden with terraces, lawns, pools, alleys of yew trees, and orchards! Stand for a moment and absorb the aromas; listen to the humming of the bees that flit from flower to flower; soak in the colors of the plants that change with the seasons: daffodils, tulips and cherry blossoms in spring; roses, dahlias, asters in summer; chrysanthemums in the autumn.

Stop at the sundial and check your watch — it is absolutely accurate. Wind your way through the rose garden where huge blooms seem to invite you to lean over and sniff. Stop in the Pavilion where turtle doves coo in a large, wicker cage; meander through the large herb garden where the aromas of rosemary, mint, and basil intermingle in the warm air.

When you have taken it all in, stop at the garden center to pick up a unique gift or at the café for a cup of tea and some French pastries. On the fourth Wednesday of every month, Filoli has traditional afternoon teas which require reservations and fill up months in advance. Other special events are the Mother’s Day Weekend, Summer Jazz concerts, Evenings of Wine and Roses and others.

Filoli is one of the Bay areas undiscovered treasures waiting to be explored and experienced. Be sure to visit the next time you are in San Francisco.

IF YOU GO
Filoli is about 30 miles south of San Francisco off Rt 280 and Rt 92 at 86 Cañada Road, Woodside, California (Tel 650-364-8300). It is open from February through the end of October. Admission Fee.

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