California’s Alabama Hills

California’s Alabama Hills

 

Mount Whitney
Mount Whitney

 

For all you Western film fans — Great news! On July 3, 2013, Disney Productions will be releasing the new “Lone Ranger” movie starring Armie Hammer as the Lone Ranger and Johnny Depp as Tonto. The dynamic duo continues to fight injustice in the Old West, as their characters did in the original TV series, much of which was filmed in the Alabama Hills of southeastern California.

Our discovery of this corner of America is one of those serendipitous moments. With an extra day to spend in the area of Ridgecrest, California, we head north toward Lone Pine, located in the shadow of Mt. Whitney, the tallest mountain in the lower 48 States (14, 495). A helpful ranger suggests that the area of Owens Valley, on the eastern slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, would be a great place to photograph.

Mobius Arch, Alabama Hills
Mobius Arch, Alabama Hills

Gold prospectors sympathetic to the South named the area in the 1860s after the Confederate warship, the “CSS Alabama.”  Thirty thousand acres of hills, hidden valleys, and massive rock formations create what is officially known as the Alabama Hills Recreation Area. Compared to the crisp, sculptured peaks of Mt Whitney and the surrounding Sierra Nevada mountains, the Alabama Hills are rounder and less defined, with smooth, orange volcanic rocks weathered by the wind and enormous round granite boulders stacked on top of each other, creating hidden paths and byways.

Dozens of stone arches dot the landscape, blending in with the rock formations. The most popular and iconic is Mobius Arch which is accessed by a short hike through the boulders. At 17 feet wide and 6 ft high, it makes the perfect frame through which to photograph Mt. Whitney, especially in the early morning when the rising sun paints the mountains with a rosy glow. About 25 feet west of Mobius is the smaller Lathe Arch which also provides a frame for some very interesting shots. There are 12 or more identified arches in the area, most of which are accessible on longer hikes. However, there are several “undocumented” arches which you can discover yourself by wandering around. (A very helpful website for identifying the arches is http://www.eugenecarsey.com/camp/alabamahills/arches.html).

As we meander down a dusty trail between hodgepodge rows of towering rocks, we can’t help but comment on what a perfect place this would be to stage an ambush. Hollywood obviously thought and thinks the same because over 400 action movies and hundreds of TV shows have been filmed here. In addition to the “Lone Ranger”, others include “Gunga Din,” “The Bengal Lancers,” “How the West Was Won,” and portions of  “Star Trek The Next Generation.” Even parts of “Gladiator” were filmed here with Russell Crow riding a horse across the Alabamas.

Mount Whitney peeks over boulders in Alabama Hills
Mount Whitney peeks over boulders in Alabama Hills

If you are planning to visit Death Valley, then a trip across to the Alabama Hills is a wonderful addition to your expedition. Who knows? You might even catch a glimpse of Tonto and Kimo Sabe lurking behind the rocks — even if it is only in your imagination!

PHOTOGRAPHIC TIP
The best part is that this area seems to be unknown to most people. In a day of driving and hiking, we saw only 3-4 other cars and 1-2 RVS. It means that you don’t have to fight for a spot to photograph. Sunrise is the light for photography in this area although you will also be able to get some angles at sunset. We use a wide-angle (140124mm) and a medium length telephoto (70-200mm). Blowing dust makes it difficult to change lenses so two camera bodies are advisable. A tripod permits you to take advantage of the excellent opportunities for HD and panoramic photos. A bean bag is helpful for some shots when you want to get down on the ground. Be prepared to lie down to get some of the more dramatic shots. A ground sheet is a helpful accessory to put in your backpack.

Jumbles of boulders, Alabama Hills
Jumbles of boulders, Alabama Hills

IF YOU GO
Stop at the Eastern Sierra Inter Agency Visitors Center on Highway 395 and SR 136 in Lone Pine to pick up some maps of the region. (Tel 760-876-6222.
To get to Mobius Arch, take Highway 395 to Lone Pine, north of Ridgecrest, California (west of Death Valley). Turn west at the stop light onto Whitney Portal Road, drive 2.5 miles to Movie Road and turn right. After 1.5 miles you will reach a Y intersection. Go right and park in the open space on your left. Follow the trail markers to the Mobius Arch.
Be sure to keep an eye out for wildlife including coyotes, rattlesnakes, and bears. We saw enormous bear paw prints in the dust near one of the areas we walked through. Once you are in the Alabama Hills Recreation Area, there are no shops, restaurants or gas stations so take plenty of water and a picnic lunch. Plan on spending a day to explore the area.

Digiprove sealCopyright secured by Digiprove © 2014 Diana Russler
Comments are closed.