Of course it is the “Touristy” thing to do! But part of visiting a new place is to experience the food. So why deny yourself? When in New Orleans, take yourself down to the Café du Monde to have a cup of café au lait and a plate of beignets.

What are beignets (pronounced ben-yay in Louisiana)? Basically they are square, raised-yeast fried dough covered in a mountain of white powdered sugar. According to information at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans, the word comes from the early Celtic word “bigne” meaning “to raise.” The beignet is thought to have come to the New World with the Acadians, although some historians believe that the Ursuline nuns who came to Louisiana in 1712 brought the recipe.

Originally opened in 1862 in the New Orleans French Market, the Café du Monde is on Decatur Street across from Jackson Square. The café is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, closing only Christmas Day and on those days when a wayward hurricane threatens to assault the city once again. And it is ALWAYS packed!

You will recognize the café not just by its green awning, emblazoned with the name but by the long lines of people waiting for a table. The lines move quickly, entertained by the street musicians performing on the sidewalk. You just wait your turn, then walk in and sit down at whatever table might be free. Place your order and within a few minutes, a plate of three golden, piping hot beignets will arrive, hiding under the powdered sugar. Traditionally they are accompanied by a large cup of Café au Lait, made with dark roasted coffee, chicory, and hot milk.

As you delicately reach for the pastry and raise it to your mouth, the slightest breath will send the sugar swirling into the air. Some people tap off the excess sugar, others valiantly struggle to bite into the delicious hot morsel without getting sugar on their nose, mouth, and hands. No use! No matter how hard you try, you will undoubtedly be wearing some before you are done, especially if you have a beard or mustache.

So ignore the snobs who tell you that it is something only the tourists do and follow the local leaders of “goin’ fo coffee and donuts.” You will be very glad you did. In fact, you will probably go back for another helping every day that you are in town.

IF YOU GO
There are two branches of Café du Monde in downtown New Orleans and several in the suburbs. The original is near the French Market across Jackson Square (800 Decatur Street, New Orleans, 504-525-4544). In addition to table service, there is also a take-out window. There is a small branch at the Riverwalk Mall where you can watch the beignets being made (1 Poydras, Suite 27, New Orleans; Tel 504-587-0841.)

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