The Banks of the Hudson River Part I

The Banks of the Hudson River Part I

Manhattan from Liberty State Park
Manhattan from Liberty State Park

It is an unfortunate reality that, for many years, the banks of the Hudson River have been “neglected” by local governments and investors. Instead of being a cherished part of the river’s natural beauty, industry and toxic waste have scarred the edges of the Great River. But things are changing, albeit not quite as fast as one would want.

Reflections of Manhattan
Reflections of Manhattan

On the New Jersey side of the river, a plan has been in place for years to connect the George Washington Bridge to the Bayonne Bridge in one giant park. Until that happens, you can, nevertheless, hike or bike portions of the Hudson River Walk that starts at the Ellis Island Terminal in Jersey City and ends at Chapel Avenue in Port Liberté.

Start your walk or ride in Liberty State Park at the Central Railroad New Jersey (CRRNJ) terminal where so many Americans began their lives in this country after being transported from Ellis Island across to the mainland. Walk along the waterfront, passing Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. Don’t forget to look back over your shoulder to admire the skyscrapers of Manhattan across the harbor. On a clear day, the George Washington Bridge can be seen in the distance.

On your right are vast open areas, ideal for playing Frisbee, flying kites or picnicking. The trees along the edges are home to a large variety of birds, including osprey and red-tailed hawks. You may wish to branch off at the Interpretive Center, set back from the Boardwalk on the edge of a pond where swans, geese, and ducks of all kinds frolic in the water. The Interpretive Center is filled with hands-on displays that are particularly interesting for children, and the dedicated personnel is always ready to share their knowledge.

The Canal at Port Liberte
The Canal at Port Liberte

When you reach the southeast corner of the park, pause a moment and reflect at “Liberation” (Holocaust Memorial), sculpted by artist Natan Rapoport, depicting an American soldier carrying a Holocaust survivor out of a concentration camp.  Follow the boardwalk past the Park Headquarters and playground/picnic area where families congregate on weekends to barbecue and enjoy the outdoors, to the edge of a small cove where fishermen cast their lines, sailboats tack with the wind, and kayaks take to the water. Peer into the clear water of the Hudson and watch crabs scuttling across the mud. In winter, seals sun themselves on the old pier foundations.

The area past the old piers is a brand new segment of the walkway, recently opened to provide another link in the Hudson River Walk. At the boat launch area, turn left, passing in front of the exclusive Liberty National Golf Club where the skyscrapers of Manhattan are reflected in the huge glass windows.

Continue along the boardwalk into the Caven Point section of Liberty State Park through the wetlands where all manner of birdlife can be observed fishing or feeding. The area off the boardwalk is closed from March to September to protect the nesting birds that live along the shore and in the woods as well as the horseshoe crabs.

A confused gull and a golf ball
A confused gull and a golf ball

At low tide, dozens of errant golf balls, miss-hits by golfers can be seen peeking out of the mud. The balls confuse the birds who think that these are something to eat, and they sometimes peck at them. At the end of the boardwalk is the small community of Port Liberté, styled after an Italian fishing village with canals and townhouses along the waterfront. The community is private property but the Hudson River Walkway skirts the area, stretching along the waterfront until it reaches the end of the peninsula where there are unparalleled views of Manhattan near the infinity pool

Turn the corner and follow the walkway along the canal where you will suddenly find yourself imagining that you are walking along the Canals of Amsterdam or Venice. For now, the Hudson River Walkway ends at Chapel Avenue from where you will need to retrace your steps unless it is a weekday when you can jump on a ferry at Chapel Avenue that will take you back to Pier 11 in Manhattan.

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