It is a land of superlatives — the deepest, purest, oldest and biggest freshwater lake in the world, so large that all the rivers in the world combined would take a year to fill it. There is enough water here to supply the world’s freshwater needs for 40 years as 336 rivers flow into the lake but only one — the River Angara — flows out. Surrounded by mountains covered in birch, pine and larch trees, green and golden in the autumn sun, this is Lake Baikal, also known as ‘The Pearl of Siberia’ or ‘Blue Eye of Siberia.” It is one of the most beautiful and unique places on earth. It is here that we stop for an unusual picnic.

Formed some 50 million years ago on an active continental rift which is widening almost an inch a year, the lake is renowned for its clean waters and its wildlife. Over 1,550 species of plants and animals make this their home. Some have even nicknamed Lake Baikal the ‘Galapagos of Russia’ because of the unique wildlife that lives here and nowhere else in the world, including the endangered Nerpa or Baikal seal.

The crystal clear waters are rich in aquatic life, in part because the lake is well oxygenated but also because of the tiny crustacean, the Baikal epishura which works like a sieve, straining out the bacteria in the water. The lake has numerous species of fish including pike, sturgeon, salmon, perch and the omul, a delicious white fish, dozens of which can be seen in the market in Listvyanka, smoked and hanging from the stalls.

Our Trans-Siberian Express train, the ‘Tsar’s Gold’ is now pulled by an old diesel locomotive. It makes a detour from the main line onto a stretch of ancient track that parallels the shore. This original section of the line was abandoned when a dam constructed on the Angara River in 1959 flooded part of the tracks. Today it is used as a means of conveying visitors to the small village of Port Baikal from where you board a steamer for a ride up part of the 1,300-mile long coastline with a stop in the village of Listvyanka.

Not far from the village is the Angara River with its dam, a hydroelectric plant and wood pulp plant which, unfortunately, continue to pollute this portion of the lake. However, the majority of Lake Baikal and the adjacent lands are officially protected by nature reserves and national parks. Efforts are also being made to clean up the remaining polluters.  As part of efforts to make the area more accessible to visitors, a series of hiking trails are being constructed (the Great Baikal Trail Project) which ultimately will encircle the entire lake.

Although the lake is exceptionally beautiful it can quickly become violent with storms that cause six-foot high waves to crash onto the shore, contributing to local myths and legends. According to the Buryats, the lake is alive and can become offended and angry. They believe the evil spirit, Bedgozi, lives on an island in the middle. Local shamans believe that the lake is home to a sea god. Others say that you can prolong your life by 25 years if you go for a swim in the frigid waters. More recent rumors suggest that the gold of the Romanov Tsars may have been lost in Lake Baikal when the train of White Army commander Alexander Kolchak, which was carrying the fortune, derailed and plunged into the lake.

After our stop at Listvyanka and a cruise on the lake, our train heads back along the shores of Lake Baikal, sometimes only feet away from the edge of the water, passing through dozens of tunnels carved in the rock. At Kilometer 110, the train stops on a bridge over an inlet in a picturesque valley. A winding path takes you through meadows to a tiny village where gingerbread houses are reflected in the still waters. The passengers disembark and explore the surroundings while the train crew sets up a Siberian barbecue and picnic, complete with charcoal roasted kebabs, salads, desserts, all washed down with the ever-present vodka. Two wood-fired samovars heat water for tea as the sun slowly sets behind the hill, turning the sky pink and orange. It is a truly unique experience. We board the train for Irkutsk in the pitch dark except for the light of the million stars that are visible in the crystal clear Siberian air. “The Blue Eye of Siberia” is such a magical location you can’t help but fall in love with it.

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