Before the advent of Christianity, the Romans had hundreds of gods and deities they called upon for protection. Besides the major ones such as Jupiter and Saturn, there were spirits that protected each household and even some that protected the food. And then there were the Lares Compitales, the guardians of the crossroads, whose statues were erected on the corner of buildings to protect the traveler, possible forerunners of the “Madonelle” (Little Madonnas) that you see today on some of Rome’s street corners.

The practice of erecting small iconic images of the Madonna is believed to date from 590 CE. At that time bubonic plague was sweeping through Rome, and citizens organized a procession from the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore to St Peter’s Basilica following an icon of the Madonna (“Salus Populi Romani” or Savior of the Roman People) to ask for protection against the disease. When the procession reached Hadrian’s Mausoleum (now Castel Sant’Angelo), the story relates, an angel appeared, sheathing its sword in what was taken as a sign that the plague was over. Thereafter, in the Middle Ages and Renaissance, it became the custom to place reproductions of the icon “Salus Populi Romani” on the outer walls of buildings.

Subsequent legends relate that in the 1790s when Rome awaited the arrival of the latest conqueror, Napoleon, the Madonnella on Via Archetto as well as countless other Madonnas, moved their eyes. This led to a huge increase in the number of Madonnelle erected around the city. According to one source, by the 19th century, there were 3,000 of these. Today there are about 500 left. Usually, the Madonna is painted with a baby but sometimes she is alone Some are painted frescoes, others sculptured marble or mosaic. Many bear inscriptions describing the miracle that led to the icon being erected on that spot. In most cases they are surrounded by a frame, sometimes more ornate than the icon itself. Sometimes a small lamp illuminates them at night. Until the late 19th century these lights were the only street illumination in the city. Once upon a time, it was commonplace to see offerings left in front of the icons, including flowers, candles, and small gifts.

One of the largest madonnelle is in front of the Pantheon on Piazza Rotonda. An 18th-century fresco of the Madonna, it takes up almost two stories on the outside of the building with an inscription beneath it “Tota puchra es, amica mea, e macula non est in te” or “You are altogether beautiful my love, there is no flaw in you.”

There are several Madonnelle in the area of Piazza Trevi. One is opposite the famous fountain. It is a simple bust carved in stone and set in an oval niche. The folds of the dress are in the classic Roman style. Another is extremely ornate. The Piazza Farnese also has at least three Madonnelle.

So no matter your personal beliefs, as you walk through the heart of historic Rome, keep your eyes focused about 10 ft off the ground, especially on the corners of buildings, to glimpse the charming, little shrines. It will soon become a treasure hunt!

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