What is most striking as you drive through the Atacama Desert in northern Chile is the utter emptiness — mile upon mile of barren desert with not a blade of vegetation in sight, where in parts no rain has fallen since records were first kept. So it is with some relief that we arrive at the Tierra Atacama Hotel and Spa, nestled in the town of San Pedro de Atacama, a small, dusty oasis where two rivers meet and where a civilization started 10,000 years ago.

This bright, cheerful, luxury, all-inclusive hotel, which opened its doors in 2008, provides the perfect base from which to explore the wonders of the Atacama while minimally disrupting the environment or the local culture. The unpretentious hotel, built of stone and wood, has 32 rooms, including two suites designed for families. Comfortable beds with 600-threat count Egyptian cotton sheets and alpaca wool blankets beckon you to fall in and dream. Handmade local textiles and art evoke the traditions of the desert. It is the little touches you appreciate – the chocolate on your pillow at night, the lip balm, sunscreen and misting sprays in the bathroom, and the friendly, efficient assistance of the staff. To ensure that you can escape completely from the stresses of everyday life, there are no televisions in the rooms; for those who are totally addicted, there is one behind the restaurant.

Meals at the Tierra Atacama are prepared with fresh local produce and feature unique menus which showcase Chilean food and wine. Most dinners include a choice of two starters and main courses as well as several desserts. If you have never eaten quinoa (the food of the ancient Atacameños), try it with Chilean Beef Stew and a glass of local red wine. A long bar against the backdrop of the 19,000 foot high Licancabur volcano is the perfect place to sip a Pisco sour with a twist of ginger or mango or to gulp down glass after glass of refreshing, cold fresh watermelon juice after a hot, dusty day exploring the desert.

Personally-tailored, guided excursions and activities for all age groups and abilities are organized daily. You can hike through deep desert valleys or over sand dunes, climb volcanoes, go horseback riding across the desert, swim in naturally heated thermal pools, take a dawn trip to the El Tatio geyser field high in the Andes, bird watch in the lagoons of the altiplano, visit the salt flats at sunset as flamingos fly overhead or eat llama meat in a small Andean village.

Returning to the hotel after a sunset hike through the lifeless Valley of the Moon, relax at the Uma Spa (Aymara for water) where, in addition to massages and spa treatments, you can swim in the outdoor pool and Jacuzzi or enjoy the heated indoor pool, steam room, Turkish bath or dry sauna. Sip rica-rica tea or cold cucumber water as you watch the Andes Mountains turn the color of burnt sienna under the setting sun. Meditate on the outdoor yoga platform under an ancient algarrobo tree. After dinner, take your coffee or tea to sit around the outdoor fire pit and contemplate the Southern Cross in a star-filled sky as the day comes to an end. The silence of the desert, broken only by the sound of crackling wood, lulls you into a meditative state where time slips away until you retire to what will undoubtedly be a deep and peaceful sleep. Tomorrow is another exciting day!

IF YOU GO Most major airlines fly to Santiago, Chile. Both LAN and Sky Airlines have several flights a day from Santiago to Calama, the largest town about an hour’s drive from San Pedro de Atacama. Transportation to and from the Calama Airport To Tierra Atacama Hotel is included as part of your package. Contact the Tierra Atacama Hotel at www.tierraatacama.com; Tel. +56-2-263-0606; in the US toll free 1-800-829-5325.

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