Three flags fly over Old Fort Niagara in upstate New York — French, British and American — symbolizing the three nations that occupied and held the fort over the past 300 years. Witness to battles and sieges, it sits silently high on a bluff downstream from Niagara Falls where the mouth of the river meets Lake Ontario. But it was not always like this. With Canada only 1,200 yards away, America’s most strategic emplacement was often filled with the sound of cannon fire resounding across the water, and the smell of gunpowder filling the air, as the various protagonists battled for supremacy.

The fort was first used by the French (known successively as Fort Conti and Fort Denonville) before falling to the British during the French and Indian War. Yielded to the Americans after the Revolutionary War, the British recaptured it during the War of 1812 and then again ceded it to the Americans. This was the last armed conflict in the area. Today, Old Fort Niagara is a State Park.

Many of the original buildings still stand, restored to provide a glimpse of how the soldiers lived. They represent many different periods of history and owners. Look for the large plaques with the arms of France, Britain and the US indicating who built each. As you enter the grounds, take a close look at the entrance gate, inscribed with the words “Porte des Cinq Nations” (Door of the Five Nations) built in honor of the Iroquois Confederacy, the original inhabitants of the area.

By far the largest and oldest building is the French Castle, a solidly built stone structure designed to withstand attacks from the Native American tribes. The building contains a chapel, powder magazine, bakery and living quarters. Of special interest is the vestibule, where under a portrait of King Louis IX of France, you will find a 25-foot deep well designed to provide water to the occupants. Legend has it that, on nights of the full moon, the headless ghost of a murdered French officer haunts the well, searching for his missing head.

There are two solid stone redoubts nearby — forts within forts. The Northern Redoubt (British construction) is built in the Roman style, with arches and doorways topped by Chinese-style roofs. Under the eaves, large cannons are trained on the water. Nearby, a large wooden cross stands starkly on the edge of the lake. Known as the Millet Cross, it is dedicated to the French soldiers of the fort (then known as Fort Denonville) who starved to death in the winter of 1687. It is a replica of the cross erected by a Jesuit priest to offer thanks for the 12 survivors.  After the British built Fort Mississauga near Niagara-on-the-Lake on the Canadian side of the river, American troops erected a massive stone wall to protect themselves from bombardment. Large cannons on top are trained on Canada, just across the river. Underneath the walls is the Hot Shot Furnace, used to heat cannonballs until they were white hot, to be shot into the wooden ships, setting them ablaze.

If you visit during the summer, be sure to check the schedule of the reenactments of 18th-century battles as well as other events which bring the old fort to life and take you back in time.

IF YOU GO
Old Fort Niagara is located in Youngstown, New York, about 15 minutes drive from Niagara Falls ( tel 716-745-7611. The fort is open daily from 0900 to sunset. From New York State Thruway, take exit 50, follow I290 West to I-190 to Exit 25B and follow Robert Moses Parkway North.

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