We are warned to expect long lines at Pappy’s Smokehouse in St. Louis so it is a pleasant surprise to see only six people ahead of us. That doesn’t last long! By the time we order, there are at least 100 people behind us, the line snaking past the back of the non-descript L-shaped restaurant and out the door. Another typical day!

This is a decidedly eclectic crowd — businessmen in suits, police officers, students, parents, children, all waiting patiently for the opportunity to order some of the best barbecue in St. Louis and salivating at the mouth-watering aromas wafting around them. Some amuse themselves playing with the life-sized pig that sits near the single cash register. Others chat with the very friendly staff or owner, Mike Emerson, clad in Pappy’s Smokehouse T-shirts which proclaim that “You can’t get enough butt” under the picture of a cute little pig.

A board lets you know what is sold out as the line inches forward. Pappy’s serves freshly made food, so only a limited amount is prepared every day. When it is gone, the restaurant closes, irrespective of the posted hours. The menu is very specific and straightforward. You can choose a sandwich or a platter (6 oz or 12 oz), selecting a meat (pulled pork, pulled chicken, beef brisket, turkey breast, spicy sausage) or if you can, go for the ribs. All meals come with a choice of two sides — baked beans, slaw, potato salad, fried corn-on-the-cob, sweet potato, fries, green beans or applesauce.

The meats are prepared in a huge smoker parked right outside on the street. They smoke for 4.5 hours over apple or cherry wood. Pappy’s uses a dry rub on the ribs followed by a brown sugar glaze. No sauces are used in the smoking process but you can add your own (Pappy’s Original Sauce, Sweet Baby Jane or Holly’s Hot Sauce).

Once you get to the register and place your order, you find a table (taking a table before your turn is not considered proper etiquette), selecting one covered in red and white checkered tablecloth or a high table with barstools. Your food is quickly brought out by the highly efficient staff.

We choose the full rack of ribs with sweet potato fries and baked beans. As you bite into the crisp brown exterior, the succulent meat melts in your mouth; any tiny piece left on your fingers quickly gets licked off. The sweet potato fries are thin, crisp on the outside and sweet, the baked beans thick and smoky. This is a meal to remember.

When you are done, the staff quickly clears the table. This is not the place to linger and chat. Others are waiting for your table. But know that you will return again and again.

IF YOU GO
Pappy’s Smokehouse is at 3106 Olive St on Cardinal Street (Tel 314-535-4340). Open Mon to Sat 1100 to 2000; Sunday 1100 to 1600, unless they run out of food in which case they close earlier. Call ahead to be sure.

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