Sanibel’s Mad Hatter Restaurant

Sanibel’s Mad Hatter Restaurant

Mad Hatter Restaurant, Sanibel, Florida
Mad Hatter Restaurant, Sanibel, Florida

“We are all mad here,” says the Mad Hatter, trapped at a never-ending tea party in Lewis Carrol’s “Alice in Wonderland.” The same message greets you as you enter the Restaurant of the same name on Sanibel Island, off Florida’s Gulf Coast. A meal here is simply “Madtastic!” Of all the places we have eaten on this lovely island, there are none that compare with the excellence of this tiny, former bungalow on the beach (there are only 20 tables inside) which has been home to the restaurant for almost 30 years. It is a whimsical place, festooned with Alice in Wonderland memorabilia. Quotations from the Mad Hatter on the chalkboard strip that decorates the top of the walls compete with the bank of windows overlooking the sunset in the Gulf of Mexico. but there is nothing whimsical about the food or service here. It is simply first class!

The Mad Hatter Restaurant, Sanibel, Florida
The Mad Hatter Restaurant, Sanibel, Florida

The present owners, Michelle and Kurt Jarvis, moved here in 2007 from the Hudson Valley, New York, where they had two restaurants and a catering business. Michelle manages the front and Kurt is the chef, conjuring up magic with only the highest quality seasonal ingredients that he prepares from scratch to create his new American cuisine. A good restaurant, however, is more than the food and wine. It is the total dining experience which Michelle and Kurt consistently deliver.

From the moment you walk in, it is the small details that strike you. As you are seated at your table, your hostess hands you a white or a black napkin, depending on the color of clothing you are wearing. When your water glass is filled or refilled, the server first tells you what he is going to go, picks up your glass from the table, fills it and then carefully wipes it on a napkin draped across his arm to avoid any drops of condensation falling into your food, before replacing it on the table. A basket of hot focaccia bread appears, accompanied by a small dish, shaped like a yin/yang sign. One half is filled with soft butter, the other with an olive tapenade. The service is attentive but not intrusive, with frequent checks to ensure that everything is in order. The staff is very professional and knowledgeable about the dishes, suggesting wine pairings to accompany the food. With selections from over 100 wineries worldwide, there is ample choice.

A pair of lobster tails
A pair of lobster tails

We return frequently during our stay at Sanibel, working our way through the menu with gusto. At the start of every meal, a small amuse-bouche is sent out from the chef — a pair of tiny crab claws kissed with a whisper of truffle oil in the vinaigrette that emphasizes the sweetness of the meat. It is just enough to whet your appetite! While all our meals are superb, there are a few dishes that stand out. Amongst the appetizers, our all-time favorite is the Hudson Valley Foie Gras. Pan-seared with rosemary and nestled on honey Asian pears, it is perfectly caramelized on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth smooth on the inside. This is one dish that must be eaten very slowly, savoring each bite. It is as good as any we have tasted in Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France.

For the main course, the choice is difficult. The Black grouper, pan-seared with lemon and served over asparagus risotto is light and flavorful, the risotto luxuriously creamy but cooked to perfection with each grain of rice holding its shape. The rack of lamb, cooked to order, is seared and encased with a walnut and cherry pesto crust, embraced with mint and port wine demi-glace and embedded on mouth-watering roasted potatoes. Bill, an Englishman weaned on lamb, comments that it is one of the most succulent, juicy pieces of lamb that he has tasted.  If you are not a fan of meat, try the lobster dinner — perfectly grilled twin tails served with mashed potatoes. It isn’t just the butter that melts in your mouth.

Mango Sorbet
Mango Sorbet

After all that, if you still have room for dessert, try Kurt’s Cheesecake, served with creme anglaise, fresh whipped cream and berries, accented with a web of glossy strands of spun sugar. If that seems too rich, go for the sorbet! Ours was mango, topped with a sprig of mint. No matter what dishes you choose, you will not be disappointed. Simply put, there is no bad choice on the menu at the Mad Hatter.

Before, during or after dinner, depending on the time of our reservation, we marvel at the spectacle of the sun slowly sinking into the Gulf of Mexico. Some patrons, many of whom reserve their table based on the time of the sunset, take their wine for a stroll on the beach to watch nature’s spectacle whilst waiting for their table.

The Mad Hatter Restaurant is one of Sanibel’s treasures. If this is madness, we are utterly “committed.”

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP
We ask for a table by the window to see the sunset but also to use the natural light for photographs, although the reflections are a bit of a challenge. We use a napkin, held up behind the dish to eliminate some reflections as well as background distractions. We use an iPhone5 to photograph the food inside the restaurant so as not to disturb other diners.

IF YOU GO
The Mad Hatter is located at 646 Sanibel-Captiva Road, Sanibel Island, Florida (Tel 239-472-0033. It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 1700 to 2130. Closed for vacation from the end of August to the beginning of October. Reservations strongly recommended.

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