It isn’t often that you can see tectonics in action. In fact, there are only two places on earth where you can see the continents playing tug-of-war as they pull apart – the Great Rift Valley in East Africa and the mid-Atlantic ridge in þingvellir National Park (pronounced Thingvellir) outside Reykjavík, Iceland. Here the junction of the plates is clearly visible, constantly diverging, creating new fissures and gullies, rerouting rivers and waterfalls. It is here that Iceland’s history has played out over the centuries.

As you leave the Visitor Center, a footpath leads you to an overlook where the spectacular landscape spreads out – an endless, picturesque plain with lakes, cliffs of lava, ravines, inlets, and forest. Nearby, a footpath that leads you down into the great Almannagja fault that separates Europe from the Americas.

But the fault is only one of the attractions. The area has another claim to fame. It was here that the Alðing, Iceland’s Open Air Democratic Assembly and the world’s oldest Parliament, was established in 930 and where it continued until 1798.

The story begins during the Icelandic Age of Settlements (about 870-930 AD) when settlers from Northern Europe — mainly Norway, Scotland and Ireland – began to arrive in Iceland, each group settling in their own area of the country. As the groups established their own systems of local government, they came together at þingvellir to form a democratic, kingless, system of government based on the rule of law– the Alðing.

For two weeks every June the chiefs and religious leaders would meet under the “Law Rock” to debate, establish laws, resolve disputes.  Historians are not entirely clear as to which is actually the “Logberg” or Law Rock. High on the lava cliff, a boulder sits perched between two spires of lava. Perhaps it was an “erratic” rock, left behind in this precarious position when the glacier retreated many millennia ago. This might be a famous rock, or perhaps it is the cliff itself.

In any case, the Law Rock became the focal point of the Alðing. Beneath it, the “Lawspeaker” (chairperson of the Assembly) would convene the meetings and steer the discussions. This individual, who was elected by the Law Council and was the only paid employee of the Assembly, was required to recite the laws to the assembled group. At a time when Icelanders had no written language, his role was to transmit the traditions orally.

Each chief (whose authority was based on an allegiance between himself and the free farmers of his area), accompanied by two followers, sat on the Law Council that was both a Parliament and a Supreme Court.

The number of Chiefs is actually unclear– estimates vary from 36 to 48. They would meet, passing laws and governing the country. Only the chiefs could vote. However, although the Law Council passed laws, it could not enforce them. This was left to the chiefs themselves. As recounted in the Sagas of Icelanders, revenge was a strong tradition in the enforcement of the laws.

Ordinary folks would also come. Merchants, musicians, farmers, storytellers – all came to be a part of the annual get-together. In the process, they forged a common language, culture, and literature that continue until today.

Unfortunately, Iceland’s Golden Age ended when quarreling chiefs brought the island to the brink of Civil War. In 1262 the King of Norway brokered a peace initiative in return for legislative control of the island. New laws were enacted and the Law Rock no longer played a role in Icelandic government.

Whatever vestiges of this democratic system of government that might have remained disappeared completely in 1662 when Iceland swore allegiance to the King of Denmark. Instead of being a beacon of democracy, the area around þingvellir, for a short time, became a place of execution. However, it remained a symbol of Iceland’s struggle for democracy and is revered by all Icelanders as a symbol of their national unity.

Knowing this history brought Þingvellir to life for us. Today, it is a place of immense natural beauty that is best explored early in the morning before thousands of visitors arrive.

You can spend hours wandering and photographing the many facets of the region. In addition to walking through the area where the Alðing took place, we hike to the Oxararfoss Waterfall. According to legend, the Oxara river was diverted many centuries ago to provide water to the assembled multitudes at the Alðing. At the base of the falls is a pool where some say women who had been accused of adultery or some other crimes were executed.  (Democracy didn’t necessarily mean fairness).

On the banks of the Oxara, downstream from the waterfall, stands a small white and green church, reflected in the waters of the small streams that surround it. Þingvallakirkja was first built shortly after Iceland adopted Christianity in 1000 AD. King Olaf of Norway sent a bell and timber for the construction of the church that has been here ever since although it was rebuilt in 1907.

We also spend a considerable amount of time on the shores of Lake Þingvallavatn (Iceland’s largest lake), photographing the bird life that abounds among the reeds and islets.

Given its location on a continental rift, Þingvellir is constantly changing and evolving. However, it provides a fascinating insight into the history and character of Iceland.

IF YOU GO

Þingvellir is located about 30 minutes from downtown Reykjavík and is a popular stop on the Golden Circle tour bus route. To truly appreciate its beauty, it is best to visit early in the morning. In addition, as the cliffs and the Oxarafoss face east, this is the best time for photographs as well.

If, like us, you prefer the flexibility of exploring independently, then Reykjavík Private Cars  provides a great alternative, either through your own rental car or by providing a guide to show you around).

 

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