The sad fact about modernization is that the “old” is usually tossed out to make room for the “new,” and in our world of globalization, the “new” tends to be the same everywhere. So when you find a place that takes you back to what life was like “in the old days,” it usually means that you will have an extraordinary place to photograph. Such is the case with Arbæjarsafn, Iceland’s Open Air Museum on the outskirts of Reykjavík.

One of the five sites belonging to the Reykjavik City Museum, Arbæjarsafn is a collection of almost 30 buildings, mostly from the center of Reykjavik but also from elsewhere in Iceland, that were slated for demolition but instead were relocated here.

Fittingly, the museum stands on what was once a farm before it fell into disrepair. The land is extremely ancient, first mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas of the 1400s.

By walking through the site and visiting the interior of the houses, you can see how the transformation of Iceland’s economy from farming to fishing affected the way people lived.

The buildings are an eclectic mix of rural and urban. As you walk onto the premises you find a town square with the largest houses, dating from the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries. The two-storied wooden houses are characteristic of gingerbread-style houses of the period.

Behind them are smaller dwellings, industrial buildings, and typical houses that were inhabited by workers. Windows with lace curtains and colorful doors accent the brown, grey, yellow and red structures. An old hand pump stands outside one house. Not far away is an old garage, complete with old-fashioned gas pump.

For us, the old farm area, scattered with turf houses and sheds, is the most fascinating part of the Museum. Of particular interest is the old Smithy sod house, located at the end of the street with three newer houses.

Turf or sod houses date back to the earliest times of Iceland’s Settlement in the Middle Ages.  For over 1,000 years these have been the most typical type of residence for Icelanders. There were no trees in Iceland. Lumber to frame the house had to be brought over by boat from northern Europe – a most expensive proposition, and therefore something to be used sparingly. Rocks formed the base for the structure and the wooden frame was filled in with thick walls of turf all the way to cover the roof, making the house almost completely wind and waterproof.

The Smithy is one of the most important structures at the museum. It is Reykjavik’s oldest and most original surviving house. First built in 1823-25 next to the Reykjavik Cathedral, it was moved here in the 1950s. Peer through the windows and you see the implements that were used by the smith to do his work.

A sod church stands near the Smithy. In 1842 it stood in Skagafjordur, Iceland, but was demolished and subsequently rebuilt in Reykjavik. The day we visit, sheep – purveyors of the wonderful wool used to knit the famous Icelandic Sweaters – graze on the turf on the sides of the building where weddings are still held.

Other sod houses include the old cowshed and the rebuilt sheep shed although the animals we see on the farm are now housed in more “modern” accommodations. Since it is summer, the cows, sheep, goats and diminutive Icelandic horses are all out in the pastures. It is the law in Iceland that animals must be put outside and allowed to roam during the warmer months.

We visit very early in the morning to photograph the buildings before the museum is open. We are completely alone, however, during the summer there are arts and crafts demonstrations and costumed attendants demonstrate the lifestyle, occupation, and leisure of the inhabitants in earlier times. This is a particularly good place to come if you are traveling with children.

Arbæjarsafn is an outstanding example of how the lifestyle of days gone by can be preserved in the face of modernity.

IF YOU GO

Arbæjarsafn is located at 4 Kistuhyl about 2 miles from downtown Reykjavik. You can take a bus (#12, #19 or #22) from the central station to the area. It is a short walk from the bus stop to the museum.

The Museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm from 1 June to 31 August. During the rest of the year, there is a guided tour at 1 pm every day. The best time to visit is during the summer when there are demonstrations of ancient arts and crafts.

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